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The Nordic Gin Revolution: On The Rise

Stig Bareksten, a prominent distiller, actively forages the diverse botanicals used in his gin, sourcing many from the untamed landscapes of Norway. He captures an array of aromas by placing botanicals such as rhubarb, arnica, elderflowers, rosehips, mint, and citrus peels in a basket within his still. The resulting vapors transform into a rich essence, enhanced further by infusing astringent juniper, bitter orris root, lingonberries, and blueberries into a potato-based distillate. This meticulous distillation process lasts up to nine hours, producing a nuanced flavor profile and a delightful mouthfeel, complemented by the exceptional glacial water from his region.

In crafting his unique gin, Bareksten draws inspiration from Norwegian folklore, particularly the hulder, mythical wood nymphs believed to dwell among the roots of ancient oak trees. “If you ask me, I’d say they are real,” he shares, adding an enchanting narrative element to his craft. This blend of story and taste is part of what makes Nordic gins so captivating.

The gin scene in Scandinavia has flourished to such an extent that it has even inspired museum exhibitions dedicated to this spirit. In Sweden, for instance, I had the opportunity to enjoy delectable cocktails like the floral pickled-plum Martini made with Stockholms Bränneri gin at Fotografiska. I also participated in an insightful tour of the Spritmuseum’s gin exhibit led by drinks expert Nadja Karlsson.

Karlsson reflected on the dramatic changes in the Swedish distillation landscape, stating, “If someone had said 20 years ago that you could distill gin in the middle of Stockholm, I wouldn’t have believed it. Now there are over 60 Swedish distilleries, all using local flavors.”

This gin renaissance is resonating across Norway, Denmark, Finland, and Iceland as well. According to Sondre Kasin, director of bars for New York City’s COTE, the relaxation of temperance laws following the Nordic countries’ accession to the European Union, coupled with the appeal of the Gin and Tonic as an accessible cocktail, has fueled this trend. “It’s popular as an easy drink to make at home,” he notes.

Drawing parallels with the chefs who championed New Nordic cuisine, Kasin describes Scandinavian distillers as being at the forefront of incorporating local ingredients into their spirits. He asserts, “The gins have a bolder botanical style, yet they taste clean.”

Kasin’s creation of a Gin Sonic demonstrates this philosophy. He elevates the traditional gin-and-tonic by substituting half of the tonic water with soda, utilizing Harahorn Gin from Norway as the base. This concoction boasts a berry-forward profile, enhanced by a salinity derived from northern seaweed, with grapefruit juice providing a pleasant bitterness that harmonizes with the gin’s earthy botanicals.

Additionally, Kasin innovates with a Nordic twist on a classic Gibson, which interweaves aquavit for added depth to the caraway notes in Bareksten’s gin. The rich pickling heritage of Scandinavia shines through as Kasin incorporates pickled cocktail onions flavored with cardamom, cinnamon, star anise, and green Chartreuse brine. This intricate blend of flavors yields a drink with a robust aromatic character that embodies a captivating duality—dark yet playful, much like the region itself.

Bareksten Botanical Gin ($35)

Food & Wine / Bareksten Spirits

This gin is characterized by bold herbaceous notes and a full mouthfeel, making it an excellent choice for a classic Martini. Pair it with a citrus-forward dry vermouth to enhance its brightness.

Hernö Old Tom Gin ($40)

Food & Wine / Hernö

A Swedish gin that balances strong herbal aromas of juniper and pine flowers with a touch of sweetness, ideal for a vibrant Tom Collins.

Stockholms Bränneri Dry Gin ($32)

Food & Wine / Stockholms Bränneri

This selection offers a lighter and more delicate flavor, with a fragrant bouquet of elderflower and heather intertwined with classic gin spices.

Purity Organic Craft Nordic Gin ($20)

Food & Wine / Purity Distillery

Lavender infuses this organic dry gin from Sweden with a grassy, floral character, providing a bittersweet finish that lingers on the palate.

Kyrö Dark Rye Gin ($40)

Food & Wine / Kyrö Distillery Company

This Finnish gin features a spicy rye flavor and a briny quality from sea buckthorn, rounded out by its cask-aging process, making it ideal for a rich, full-bodied Negroni.

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