Photo credit: www.cntraveler.com
Paris is home to a hidden treasure trove of gardens, offering serene retreats amidst the city’s hustle and bustle. Nestled behind museums, churches, and hotels, these lush green spaces serve as tranquil getaways that capture the essence of nature. Whether it’s a secluded square, a charming park, or a vibrant courtyard, the City of Light is brimming with secret gardens just waiting to be discovered.
The proliferation of greenery in Paris can be traced back to the mid-19th century. In 1850, under the direction of Napoleon III, the city underwent a significant transformation that redefined its architectural and urban landscape. Urban planner George-Eugène Haussmann was tasked with creating grand boulevards and monumental buildings, but he also prioritized the development of public parks, which were intended to serve as the city’s “lungs.” Former royal hunting grounds and ancient woodlands were repurposed into expansive green areas at the city’s edges, while numerous smaller gardens and squares were established throughout the 20 arrondissements. Today, Paris is home to over 400 parks and gardens, with city leaders on a mission to make it the greenest city in Europe by 2030. Here, we explore a few of these hidden oases and nature-filled retreats in Paris.
A version of this article originally appeared in Architectural Digest.
Hôtel Particulier Montmartre, 18th arrondissement
Located off Avenue Junot near the iconic Sacré Cœur, the Hôtel Particulier Montmartre is a former residence of the Hermès family that has been elegantly transformed into a five-suite hotel. One of the hotel’s standout features is its expansive wraparound garden, designed by renowned landscape architect Louis Benech, who is noted for his work on the Jardin des Tuileries. During the summer months, the Grand Salon restaurant relocates its service outdoors, offering diners the opportunity to enjoy their meals at wrought-iron tables beneath a canopy of magnolia trees and sycamores draped in ivy. The garden is adorned with vibrant flowers such as hot pink Daphne odora and golden St. John’s Wort, creating a picturesque setting alongside the lively sounds from neighboring pétanque players at the Club Lepic Abbesses Pétanque. Guests can indulge in freshly prepared traditional dishes or partake in a classic afternoon tea, indulging in a nostalgic atmosphere reminiscent of the 19th century.
La Vallée Suisse, 8th arrondissement
Hidden away near the bustling Champs-Élysées on Avenue Franklin Delano Roosevelt lies La Vallée Suisse, a serene 1.7-acre garden that seems worlds away from the busy streets of Paris. This enchanting space, designed by Haussmann-era engineer Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand, features a stunning mix of twisted vines, stone archways, and an array of flora including lemon trees, evergreens, and lilacs, all set against a tranquil pond complete with a waterfall. As a preserved slice of 19th-century Paris, La Vallée Suisse offers inviting benches perfect for relaxation, reading, or simply taking in the delightful surroundings.
Garden at Hôtel-Dieu, 4th arrondissement
Contrary to the common perception of hospital gardens, the one at Hôtel-Dieu, situated on Île de la Cité, presents a breath of serenity amid the historical chaos. Established in 651 CE, this ancient hospital features a meticulously designed formal garden characterized by symmetrically sculpted boxwoods complemented by splashes of color from pink geraniums, impatiens, and Indian roses. Nestled within a Romanesque arched courtyard, this tranquil space offers a striking contrast to the bustling tourist scene at the nearby Notre-Dame Cathedral, inviting visitors to pause and appreciate the serene beauty of this unique urban garden.
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www.cntraveler.com