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The recent surge of interest in cured meats, particularly the attention towards mortadella, has sparked conversations among food enthusiasts and casual diners alike. For some, it’s a nostalgic trip back to the bologna sandwiches of childhood, while for others, the intricacies of charcuterie can feel overwhelming, especially with numerous options like soppressata and capocollo becoming more mainstream.
Enter Jeremy Umansky, a chef and co-owner of Larder Delicatessen in Cleveland, Ohio. Umansky has carved out a reputation as a specialist in culinary preservation and fermentation. His technique involves using koji-infused rice flour, a traditional tool for fermenting foods like soy sauce and miso, which he applies to various meats such as pork and venison to create unique, flavor-rich products.
Umansky’s journey into the world of cured meats has also positioned him as a knowledgeable figure on international meat curing practices. In a recent conversation with the podcast Gastropod, he discussed the distinctions between various cured meats, shared insights into making flavorful gefilte fish, and explained the philosophy that shapes Larder’s offerings.
For those curious about the evolution of deli meat and its history, including how military advancements influenced modern processing techniques, Gastropod’s latest episode titled “Deli is Short for Delicious — But Are Your Pastrami and Bologna Sandwiches Giving You Cancer?” offers an in-depth exploration.
Gastropod: What cured meats do you produce at Larder?
Jeremy Umansky: We truly explore the vast landscape of cured meats, considering techniques and traditions from multiple cultures. The question is not whether we have cured meats from a particular animal, but rather, which animals have we not yet transformed into charcuterie?
While elephants are off the menu—both ethically and practically—virtually any other animal can be utilized through varying methods. For instance, even fish like tuna can be turned into deli meats with the right techniques.
Can you elaborate on the process behind making pastrami?
Traditionally, pastrami was made from goose, seasoned with spices like coriander, black pepper, and sometimes a hint of juniper, onion, and garlic. The preparation involved a brining process followed by a dual cooking method of smoking and steaming.
As Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe settled in New York City, pastrami adapted with the availability of cheaper cuts, shifting from goose to beef navel, which is fatty and has a texture similar to pork belly.
Later, as tastes and budgets evolved, brisket emerged as a favored cut for pastrami due to its meatiness and suitability for the cooking technique. The spice mixture largely remains unchanged, but modern interpretations at Larder include additions like wild mushroom powder, dark cocoa, and coffee, enhancing the depth of flavor.
And what about bologna?
In Italy, true bologna is known as mortadella, a distinct sausage native to the Bologna region. While the American version has become a staple, the quality and preparation methods often differ significantly. A high-quality Italian mortadella could visually resemble the mass-produced Oscar Mayer bologna, but the taste and texture are worlds apart.
Creating bologna involves grinding meat and fat into a paste, similar to a cold buttercream consistency. The mixture is then stuffed into casings and poached to achieve a smooth texture.
The production methods favor simplicity and efficiency, leading to the widespread availability of bologna as a deli staple compared to more artisanal options.
How do you merge tradition with modern techniques?
I noticed concerns about the decline of Jewish delis and felt a responsibility to contribute positively to the preservation of this culinary heritage. Larder embodies my commitment to keeping Jewish food culture alive in North America.
This means interpreting traditional deli classics with fresh perspectives, such as using high-quality, pastured turkey in our bologna instead of lower-grade beef. For our gefilte fish, we prepare the mixture on a cast iron skillet, yielding a burger-like patty that completely reinvents the dish, much to the delight of our customers.
While some might argue that our approaches stray too far from tradition, my response is that understanding and adapting culinary tradition requires engaging with contemporary tools and preferences. Modern food preparation techniques coupled with innovative ideas ensure that our heritage remains relevant and appealing to contemporary diners.
Ultimately, preserving these traditions hinges on making them delicious and enticing to today’s food lovers, ensuring their survival and appreciation for future generations.
Source
www.eater.com