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The Art of Homemade Curry Paste: A Culinary Journey

The rhythmic pounding of a century-old mortar and pestle evokes nostalgic memories of my grandmother’s kitchen. The sound of stone grinding against stone, as ingredients like shallots, garlic, lemongrass, and Thai chilies are transformed into a vibrant paste, encapsulates a sensory experience that lingers in my mind.

In my routine culinary practices, however, I often reach for the convenience of canned curry paste, particularly from Maesri. This shortcut is commonly embraced by many home cooks, including my mother, especially on busy weeknights. The simplicity of pairing canned curry with quick-to-cook proteins such as salmon or tofu is undeniably appealing. Conversely, crafting a homemade curry paste requires not just an array of fresh ingredients but also the physical endurance necessary to break down fibrous lemongrass and makrut lime into a silky mixture.

Recently, striving to honor my grandmother’s culinary legacy, I endeavored to make curry paste from scratch, utilizing both her beloved mortar and pestle and a food processor for efficiency. This dual approach resonates with the techniques employed by chefs like Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon at her Philadelphia restaurant, Kalaya. “There’s no need to use a krok,” she explains, referencing the traditional mortar and pestle, “as those found in America are often too small and lightweight.” Instead, she opts for a sizeable food processor to handle larger quantities.

To Pim Techamuanvivit, the award-winning chef behind several renowned restaurants such as Kamin and Kin Khao, tool choice plays a crucial role. “Pounding every single batch would inhibit production, making it more of a chore than an enjoyable task,” she observes, emphasizing practicality without diminishing the authenticity of the process.

I initially tried to replicate my grandmother’s method meticulously, with my mother’s advice in mind—finely chopping the ingredients beforehand. Despite my efforts, the fibrous nature of the ingredients made the process challenging. Techniques in pounding are essential; it requires a nuanced approach of applying friction rather than sheer force, as Techamuanvivit describes.

As I tackled the task, it became apparent that my technique was lacking. Chunks of half-pounded lemongrass and errant chili pieces filled the air, while my shoulder protested under the effort. Eventually conceding defeat, I transferred my struggling mixture to a food processor, recognizing that even skilled chefs recommend modern tools to enhance the process.

Once in the food processor, blending the paste was straightforward. I pulsed it to retain some texture, a critical benefit of crafting curry paste from scratch: the ability to control both texture and flavor. As Techamuanvivit notes, there’s immense value in knowing precisely what goes into the paste, allowing adjustments to spice levels or salinity as needed.

Upon completing my homemade curry paste, the aroma enveloped my kitchen – a fragrant blend of briny shrimp paste and vibrant herbs reminiscent of traditional recipes. The entire process spanned roughly half an hour, with ingredient procurement being the most time-consuming step. Yet, the ultimate barometer was whether this fresh paste would surpass its canned counterpart.

To put this to the test, I prepared two dishes of chicken panang: one using the convenient canned paste and another featuring my freshly made version. Upon opening the Maesri can, I noted a significant disparity; the aroma lacked the vibrancy of my homemade mixture. The consistency was smoother and more oily, tinged with a bright orange hue. While it activated in coconut oil, it paled in comparison to the bold scents of my creation.

The final dish made with the canned paste was satisfactory but undeniably lacking in complexity and heat. While practical for a quick meal, it didn’t invoke the same passion found in traditionally cooked food. Suntaranon suggests enhancements for canned versions, such as boosting the flavor with fish sauce or fresh herbs, but even then, the dish felt somewhat one-dimensional.

Contrastingly, my homemade panang showcased a robust, multifaceted aroma with clear notes of shrimp paste and chilies, enriched through the activation of the paste in coconut oil. The challenge was determining the appropriate amount to use, as the canned paste had specific instructions while my method felt more instinctual. The final outcome was undoubtedly the most satisfying curry I had ever prepared, with a subtler pink hue but an assertive flavor profile.

For those beginning their journey into curry-making, pre-made curry pastes offer an approachable entry point. As Techamuanvivit mentions, there’s no shame in utilizing these conveniences. Yet, the realization that crafting fresh paste could be straightforward, especially with a food processor, is revelatory. I froze enough homemade paste for multiple meals, simplifying future cooking endeavors.

In conclusion, I wholeheartedly endorse creating curry paste from scratch. The unmatched freshness and personalization of flavors make the effort worthwhile. “Consider it an adventure,” Techamuanvivit encourages. “An entire world of flavor opens up when you try making your own curry paste.”

Lily Fossett is an illustrator based in Bath, UK, with a focus on narrative and the exploration of color and texture through digital media.

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