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Rediscovering Cherimoya: A Winter Treat from California

As winter blankets the East Coast in a chill, local gardens remain dormant, their allure muted under layers of frost. With only a handful of options for fresh produce—primarily apples and pears that have been stored since the fall—it may seem like the culinary scene is at a standstill. However, while the East remains in a state of desolation, another part of the country experiences a vibrant seasonal harvest: cherimoya season in California. These tropical delicacies thrive in the warmth, and thanks to modern logistics, they can be ordered from the comfort of home.

Every February, as winter’s grip tightens, I find solace in the allure of cherimoyas from Rincon Tropics in Carpinteria, California. The company, founded with the very first cherimoya seeds planted in the U.S. back in 1871, ships these luscious fruits across the nation, allowing me to indulge in this sweet taste of California from the depths of winter.

Different from the frostbitten trees of New York, cherimoyas provide a refreshing contrast to the harsh winter environment. As I unbox my order, I marvel at their intriguing shapes. They resemble everything from curled armadillos to cartoonish alligator hearts. Rich and green on the outside, they boast a creamy, sweet flesh within, which has earned them the moniker of “ice cream fruit.” The delightful flavor offers a pleasant escape, an emblem of the diverse climates that characterize the United States.

Although cherimoyas can occasionally be found in local supermarkets, their availability is inconsistent. Prices range from $7.99 to $12.99 per pound, often making it difficult to ascertain their quality or ripeness. After years of searching for the perfect balance, I sometimes journey to Caribbean markets for other tropical fruits like soursop. These fruits are flown in fresh, but cherimoyas remain a unique favorite, especially when sourced from California.

Rincon Tropics is not just a supplier; it’s a family legacy. The Brown family has been cultivating cherimoyas for decades, with roots in commercial farming that stretch back approximately 50 years. Nick Brown, son of Tony Brown, transitioned to mail-order sales during the COVID-19 pandemic, making it easier for enthusiasts across the nation to enjoy these seasonal treats. A box of cherimoyas—usually containing four to five fruits—costs about $50, a price reflecting their unique cultivation and the care taken to bring them to consumers.

Once they arrive, cherimoyas need to ripen at room temperature. They are perfectly sweet when the stem end yields to light pressure, allowing for a brief chilling if not eaten immediately. After savoring my first fruit, I begin separating the seeds to prepare my annual cherimoya granita—a refreshing dessert that captures the essence of this exotic fruit.

The flavor of cherimoya is a joyous exploration. Each variety offers its nuances, with the sweet, juicy flesh often pooling with moisture as it’s scooped out. The tenderness of the fruit is enhanced by subtle notes of lemon and a hint of tropical essence that lingers beyond the initial bite.

Categorically, cherimoyas are classified as Annona cherimola and are believed to have origins in Andean South America, though some theories point to Mesoamerican roots as well. Evidence suggests that these fruits were not only consumed but also cultivated by the Incas, making them a historical delicacy. The connection to ancient cultures is a testament to their lasting appeal and culinary significance.

With their unique appearance, delightful flavor, and rich heritage, cherimoyas represent a seasonal treasure worth exploring, even in the depths of winter. They remind us of the diverse agricultural landscapes of this nation and the stories that come with each bite.

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