Photo credit: www.bonappetit.com
The butternut squash has long been criticized for its size and often unremarkable flavor, taking up space in our grocery carts and frustrating our kitchen endeavors. Dan Barber, the author of The Third Plate and co-owner of Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Tarrytown, New York, has sought to change this narrative.
Over the last century, the agricultural landscape has shifted dramatically, with a small number of large corporations, including the likes of Monsanto, acquiring numerous seed companies. This consolidation has resulted in a market dominated by a handful of varieties, many of which are designed to be compatible with the pesticides these companies produce. Motivated by these challenges, Barber co-founded Row 7 Seed Company, which aims to bring delicious and diverse vegetables back into focus in our meals.
One of the standout creations from this initiative is the honeynut squash, a smaller, sweeter variety born from a collaboration between Barber and Cornell University plant breeder Michael Mazourek. This innovative squash, introduced to the market in 2015, has grown in popularity, with Barber noting that it, along with its cousins such as honeypatch, is now cultivated across hundreds of acres nationwide.
Row 7 Seed Company offers a selection of seven unique fruits and vegetables as well as 23 different seed varieties, showcasing the creativity and dedication of seed breeders passionate about enhancing our food experiences through better plant genetics. This age-old practice of plant breeding involves meticulously cross-pollinating various plants to cultivate desirable traits. Consumers can readily access Row 7 seeds through farmers markets and Whole Foods locations nationwide.
Effective marketing has also played a crucial role in promoting Row 7. Barber’s connections within both the farming and fine dining industries have facilitated the introduction of these unique vegetables to restaurants across the country, enhancing their visibility and availability. Take, for instance, a recent experience in Ann Arbor, Michigan, where Row 7’s Badger Flame Beets were featured at Spencer. Chef Abby Olitzky creates monthly menus, and during her shopping at the local farmers market, she happened upon these uniquely shaped and colorful beets. Recognizing their potential, she transformed them into an artwork of flavor by preparing them in a fragrant mix of olive oil, white wine, and thyme, culminating in an enchanting salad that delighted the senses.
Today, Barber finds himself approached by numerous breeders eager to collaborate. This initiative not only fosters innovation but also channels a portion of sales back into public research efforts, ensuring the sustainability of agricultural development. Looking ahead, Barber is excited about a new project featuring a dark purple sweet potato, showcasing his team’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of flavor and vegetable diversity.
Plant Row 7 Co. seeds at home
Row 7 Organic Sweet Garleek Seeds (50 Seeds)
This hybrid allium brings together the robust flavor of savory garlic with the softer sweetness of leeks, developed meticulously by breeder Hans Bongers. After a decade of careful selection, this variety features straight, uniform plants with a tender texture.
Row 7 Badger Flame Beet Seeds (100 seeds)
Created by breeder Irwin Goldman and his team, this breed of beet is the culmination of about 15 years of research aimed at eliminating the earthy taste typically associated with the vegetable. With its vivid orange-red skin and golden interior, it’s not only milder but can also be consumed raw, revolutionizing the way we enjoy beets.
Row 7 Upstate Abundance Seed Potatoes (1 pound)
This uniquely compact potato, developed by second-generation breeder Walter De Jong, encapsulates the rich essence of potato flavor. Its creamy white flesh has a nutty profile, making it a delicious addition to various culinary creations.
Source
www.bonappetit.com