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The Rise of Quinoa: From Indigenous Crop to Global Superfood

The popularity of quinoa surged in 2013, with its presence prominent in supermarkets and on menus of fast-casual dining options focused on salads. This grain, once relegated to niche health food stores, was suddenly hailed as a “superfood” capable of addressing significant global issues such as climate change, hunger, and poverty. The United Nations even recognized this emerging trend by naming 2013 the “International Year of Quinoa.”

However, just a few decades prior, quinoa was virtually unknown outside its native regions in Peru and Bolivia. The fascinating journey of quinoa from the high Andes to international acclaim is explored in an episode of Gastropod. Co-hosts Cynthia Graber and Nicola Twilley delve into the history that encompasses ancient Incan cultures, colonial influences, and the modern food movement that paved the way for quinoa’s rise.

Quinoa is native to the Altiplano plateau within the Andes Mountains, spanning parts of Peru and Bolivia. Unlike typical grains, quinoa is more closely related to spinach, and uniquely, it thrives at altitudes around 12,000 feet. Indigenous farmers have cultivated it for thousands of years, often growing it alongside other native crops like oca tubers and tarwi beans—a testament to a sustainable agricultural system.

Interest in quinoa’s nutritional benefits grew in the early 20th century, with significant studies showcasing its advantages over traditional food sources; experiments indicated that rats fed quinoa were larger and healthier than those given milk. Yet, during this time, American consumers remained drawn to more conventional foods like Wonder Bread, as the era celebrated processed ingredients and chemical enhancements over natural options.

The landscape of American eating habits began shifting in the 1960s and 1970s as a focus on ‘natural’ foods gained traction. This holistic approach emphasized whole grains and fresh vegetables, setting the stage for quinoa’s entry into the U.S. market in the 1980s. This breakthrough was largely credited to a trio of American entrepreneurs from Colorado, inspired by their encounters with quinoa during travels in Bolivia. One of their brands, Ancient Harvest, has remained a staple in supermarkets.

Despite its introduction, quinoa was still primarily a health food product, appealing to a niche market. Emma McDonell, a professor at the University of Tennessee at Chattanooga and author of The Quinoa Bust, noted that by the mid-1980s, U.S. consumers who embraced quinoa numbered no more than 40,000. However, increased media coverage, including a notable New York Times article in 1986 and a National Research Council report in 1989 discussing the crop’s potential to combat global hunger, set the stage for quinoa to gain wider recognition.

As quinoa began to attract more interest internationally, perceptions of it were shifting in Peru as well. Historically, Spanish colonization had linked quinoa to rural, impoverished populations. However, chefs in the 1980s aimed to elevate Peruvian cuisine and showcase native ingredients, much like what had been done in other culinary cultures. McDonell describes how this revitalization was crucial in transforming perceptions of quinoa among the affluent and culinary innovators.

As Lima’s culinary scene began to flourish, quinoa was incorporated into upscale dining experiences and became more widely available in retail markets. Its transformation into a fashionable ingredient resonated not only with local elites but also with a global audience eager for authentic culinary experiences.

With these market shifts, quinoa’s price began to reflect its new status, raising hopes that the growing demand could economically uplift farmers from the Altiplano region.

The peak of quinoa’s meteoric rise occurred in 2013, leading to a surge in trendy food creations featuring quinoa, from power bowls to desserts. The market price for quinoa surged, doubling between 2013 and 2014. As its popularity soared, questions arose about whether its success could genuinely benefit the farmers who had cultivated it for centuries. To understand more about the complex relationship between quinoa’s popularity and its traditional growers, tune in to the latest episode of Gastropod.

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