Photo credit: explorersweb.com
Over the past seven decades since the first successful ascents of Makalu and Kangchenjunga, these peaks continue to capture the imagination of climbers worldwide, despite the increased commercialization of high-altitude climbing. Interestingly, the pioneering expeditions share more commonality with contemporary climbers than one might assume.
As per the recent data from Nepal’s Department of Tourism, by April 16, 54 permits had been issued for Makalu, while Kangchenjunga had received 41 permits. In comparison, Annapurna had 66, Ama Dablam garnered 80, and Everest led with 311 permits.
This year marks the 70th anniversary of the first ascents of both mountains, prompting reflections on the differences and similarities between the national teams of the 1950s and the current generation of climbers.
Seventy Years Ago…
Kangchenjunga’s inaugural summit was achieved by British climbers George Band and Joe Brown on May 25, 1955, with Band being the youngest member of the earlier expedition that first summited Everest. Shortly after, teammates Norman Hardie and Tony Streather reached the top, where they observed a tradition of stopping a few meters short of the summit, honoring the local communities that regard the mountain as sacred. This practice, initially followed by many, eventually faded.
On May 15, 1955, French climbers Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy accomplished the first ascent of Makalu, having previously been part of the 1950 Annapurna expedition. The expedition strategy in those days often involved teams working together to ensure that the strongest climbers would attempt the final summit push.
The 1950s were characterized by a spirit of conquest, where climbers aimed to be the first to plant their national flag atop major peaks, often with extensive support. This landscape was not entirely dissimilar to modern times, where commercial interests have also shaped climbing culture, though the emphasis on style and self-sufficiency became more pronounced in subsequent decades.
Both Makalu and Kangchenjunga ascents relied on oxygen and support from local Sherpas, although during that era, many Nepalese climbers lacked the experience and gear to reach high altitudes. Those who did, like Gyaltsen Norbu on Makalu and Dawa Tensing on Kangchenjunga, achieved remarkable feats. Dawa was also part of the successful 1953 Everest expedition.
The first ascent of Kangchenjunga without supplemental oxygen was accomplished in 1979 by Doug Scott, Pete Boardman, and Joe Tasker, who explored a new route from the mountain’s northern side. Marjan Manfreda became the first climber to summit Makalu without oxygen in 1975.
…And Now
Currently, the use of supplemental oxygen is widespread among climbers tackling the 8,000-meter peaks, particularly the Big Five: Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, and Makalu. However, this year, a notable number of climbers on Makalu have expressed their intent to ascend without bottled oxygen.
In 2025, over half of the permits issued for Kangchenjunga (15 out of 26) were allocated to women, reflecting a significant increase in female representation on the 8,000-meter peaks. In contrast, for Makalu this year, the numbers were 43 men to 11 women.
This year on Makalu, several teams, including those from Poland and Kazakhstan, are operating independently, without the use of supplemental oxygen or personal Sherpas.
“Independent” Teams
It’s worth noting that the term “independent” has evolved over the last decade. Even these teams often follow established routes that have been opened and equipped with fixed ropes by professional Sherpa climbers, a practice that occurred early in the season on Makalu. A notable achievement this year was the summit of Lakpa “Makalu” Sherpa and his team on April 10.
Despite advancements in technology and climbing amenities, climbers on Makalu must still contend with its harsh winds, a characteristic of the mountain. The normal route, while generally safe from notable hazards, faces relentless gusts that increase the risk of frostbite and present challenging conditions with hard snow and ice.
Most climbers on Makalu have completed a rotation to Camp 2, as demonstrated in a video by Polish climber Jarek Zdanowicz, who later retreated to Base Camp to seek shelter from severe winds over the past three days.
Kangchenjunga
This week, most climbers heading for Kangchenjunga arrived at Base Camp. Many chose to trek in, taking advantage of the terrain in northeastern Nepal for acclimatization. Additionally, helicopter services are available for emergencies or retreats during adverse weather conditions. A recent sighting showed Simone Moro piloting a helicopter while transporting supplies to Kangchenjunga Base Camp.
Source
explorersweb.com