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Johnny Waterman: A Pioneer of Solo Mountaineering
In 1978, Johnny Waterman, an American mountaineer, achieved a historic milestone by completing the first solo ascent and traverse of Mount Hunter’s twin summits in Alaska. His arduous journey, spanning 145 days, pushed the boundaries of solo mountaineering, demonstrating remarkable resilience and technical ability. This article delves into Waterman’s extraordinary climb, its implications, and his lasting influence on the sport.
Johnny Waterman’s Early Life
Born in 1952, John Mallon Waterman, commonly known as Johnny, was introduced to climbing through his father, Guy Waterman, a noted mountaineer and conservationist, along with his brother Bill. During his teenage years, Johnny embarked on backpacking and rock climbing adventures throughout New York and New England.
At the age of 15, he tackled a challenging 5.10 route named Retribution in the Shawangunk Mountains. By 16, he joined the Appalachian Mountain Club to climb McKinley’s West Buttress.
As noted by Bradley Snyder in the American Alpine Journal, Waterman was ahead of his time in the mountaineering sphere: “Though one might attribute his successes to natural talent, he dedicated significant effort to mastering climbing techniques, making him a proficient and dependable climber across various terrains.”
Significant Climbing Achievements
After high school, Waterman traveled extensively, making his mark with notable ascents in regions like England, Scotland, Canada, the Alps, and Turkey. Among his accomplishments was the second ascent of Snowpatch Spire’s South Face in Canada.
He further solidified his reputation by becoming the first solo climber to ascend the VMC Direct route on Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire, scaling a vertical height of 1,244 meters. His impressive portfolio includes solo ascents of the Nose of El Capitan, the Grand Teton’s North Face, and the south-to-north traverse of the Howser Towers, among others.
Exploring Mount Hunter
Mount Hunter, also referred to as Begguya, lies 13 kilometers south of Mount McKinley within Denali National Park. The name Begguya translates to “child” in the local Dena’ina Athabascan language, signifying its relation to the larger Denali.
The mountain is renowned for its steep faces and technical challenges, attracting elite climbers. Mount Hunter features two summits: the North Summit rises to 4,442 meters, while the South Summit stands at 4,255 meters. A high plateau connects these summits, adding complexity to the traverse.
The first successful ascent of Mount Hunter was accomplished in 1954 by climbers Fred Beckey, Heinrich Harrer, and Henry Meybohm, who reached the North Summit after navigating a route filled with glaciers and steep terrains.
A 1973 Ascent Attempt
In May 1973, Waterman, alongside Dean Rau, Don Black, and Dave Carman, attempted the inaugural ascent of the south face-south ridge route of Mount Hunter. At that time, Waterman was just 21 years old and targeted the South Summit.
On May 29, as they were just 61 meters from their goal, the team decided to halt due to an approaching storm and confusion regarding the North Summit. The route they chose involved multiple challenging sections, making their climb increasingly arduous.
Trapped by a storm, the climbers faced severe conditions, including high winds and poor visibility, leading to dwindling food supplies and frostbite for Waterman. They ultimately retreated, but Waterman’s determination to one day solo the mountain was ignited.
The 1978 Solo Traverse
In the spring of 1978, driven by an obsession that had begun a decade earlier, Waterman set out alone to navigate Mount Hunter. He initiated his solo climb on March 24, embarking from the Tokositna Glacier’s cirque, with ambitions to conquer both summits through a complex traverse.
Equipped with substantial gear and food, calculated to provide 5,000 calories daily, Waterman followed an expedition-style approach, systematically carrying his base camp supplies up the mountain’s various sections.
The Climb’s Challenges
The climb involved traversing snow, ice, and rocky cliffs, requiring him to establish multiple camps along the way. Throughout this journey, Waterman coped with numerous adversities, including frostbite, equipment failures, and food shortages. He reached the South Summit on July 2, after 101 days in ascent.
After traversing both summits, he descended via the north spur, ultimately concluding his solo venture after 145 grueling days. Waterman’s endeavor not only marked him as the first person to complete the solo ascent and traverse of Mount Hunter but also showcased his extraordinary mental and physical fortitude.
Life Post-Climb and Disappearance
Following his historic climb, Waterman’s mental health began to spiral, characterized by obsessive behavior and delusions, possibly due to the pressures of his previous accomplishments.
In April 1981, Waterman set his sights on McKinley, tackling the East Buttress route alone. Unfortunately, he disappeared during this attempt, last spotted at an altitude of 3,350 meters on April 19. Search operations yielded minimal evidence, leaving his fate uncertain—he could have fallen into a crevasse, been caught in an avalanche, or succumbed to exposure.
Legacy and Aftermath
In February 2000, Waterman’s father, Guy Waterman, tragically took his own life on Mount Lafayette in New Hampshire. Following this, Laura Waterman established The Waterman Fund in honor of her late husband, promoting wilderness conservation and education. The organization awards the annual Guy Waterman Alpine Steward Award in recognition of individuals committed to preserving mountain environments.
Johnny Waterman’s legacy endures not only through his remarkable achievements in mountaineering but also through the ongoing efforts to honor his family’s commitment to preserving the wild landscapes they cherished.
Source
explorersweb.com