Photo credit: www.eater.com
A deep affection for soft serve has always been a part of my life. During my time in Brooklyn, my choice of a primary care physician hinged on her practice’s proximity to a beloved soft-serve spot, 16 Handles. After relocating to Los Angeles, I made sure my new apartment was just a short drive from Magpies. Each Wednesday, my sister and I engage in a light-hearted exchange about the latest flavors from Magpies — is the roasted strawberry a delightful pick, or lackluster? (Definitely the former.) Should we plan our evening around sampling the intriguing Vietnamese coffee and butterscotch swirl? (Most likely!) While I might indulge in an impulsive scoop from options like Jeni’s, Salt & Straw, or Van Leeuwen, it’s this soft serve that truly drives my enthusiasm.
Despite my passion for soft serve, the thought of owning a home soft-serve machine had never crossed my mind — until recently. Initially, I found the concept of making ice cream at home overly complicated and unnecessary, that was until my TikTok feed became flooded with captivating posts about the Ninja Creami.
By now, the Ninja Creami is a familiar name to many; its popularity rivals the fervor of long-term residents attending the Dead & Co. residency in Las Vegas at the Sphere. With the press of a button, it creates various ice cream textures and opens the door to endless flavor combinations. Both health enthusiasts and those prioritizing dessert in their cooking find it appealing, especially thanks to its remarkable ability to transform store-bought protein shakes into creamy frozen treats. The Creami community has flourished, leading to the creation of a vibrant subreddit with over 80,000 members sharing innovative recipes for homemade cookie butter ice cream, stracciatella gelato, and even Dole Whip. A friend recently raved about how they utilized their Creami every single day for months, an uncommon claim for a kitchen gadget focused on one task.
Caught in the hype, I found myself increasingly curious about the Creami. While hesitant about the nearly $200 price tag and the space it would occupy on my counter, I observed from a distance. The launch of a new model, the Ninja Swirl by CREAMi, which features a built-in soft-serve option among several enhancements, spurred me to reconsider. When the chance arose to test it out, I was more than ready.
As a food and commerce writer, with experience reviewing a range of appliances from refrigerators to espresso machines, the Creami Swirl felt like a perfect fit for my interests. After a trial run, I can say that while it is sizable and somewhat noisy, its capabilities are quite impressive. Here’s my thorough evaluation.
First impressions…
Unboxing the Swirl was both thrilling and a bit daunting. Weighing around 21 pounds, it’s lighter than a KitchenAid stand mixer but shares a similar footprint. Compared to the original Creami, which resembles a medium coffee machine, the Swirl doubles in width to accommodate its soft-serve feature and has a prominent handle for dispensing. Standing over 17 inches tall, it barely fits beneath my kitchen cabinets, necessitating some thought about placement.
The Swirl consists of several components. In addition to the main unit, the package includes two pint containers, an external container, a Creamerizer paddle, a drip tray, various lids, and QR codes on each item prompting interaction for setup. Personally, I prefer traditional manuals, so I opted to learn through the written instructions and hands-on experience.
Setting the Swirl up
For those new to the Creami, it’s essential to prepare your ice cream base and freeze it overnight before diving in. The Swirl comes with two pint containers, prompting me to experiment with two initial recipes: the classic chocolate soft-serve recommended by Ninja and a protein ice cream variation that caters to many users’ interests. For the latter, I started with a Cake Batter-flavored Premier Protein shake mixed with pistachio Jell-O pudding mix for an added twist. After freezing both bases overnight, they were ready for churning the next day.
Identifying and organizing the pint containers and lids was straightforward, but I hesitated to remove the myriad stickers on the machine, fearful of overlooking an important instruction. However, by studying the detailed illustrations in the instruction booklet closely, I deciphered the setup. It involves a fair bit of twisting and pulling, but nothing too complicated. By my second batch, I moved swiftly through the process, with growing confidence.
What are the new features on the Ninja Swirl by CREAMi?
Let’s break down the new offerings.
The standard Ninja Creami features seven settings: ice cream, sorbet, lite ice cream, smoothie bowl, gelato, milkshake, and mix-in.
The Creami Deluxe boasts 11 options: ice cream, sorbet, lite ice cream, gelato, milkshake, frozen yogurt, Italian ice, frozen drink, “slushi,” “creamiccino,” and mix-in. It accommodates larger 24-ounce tubs as opposed to the 16-ounce pints of other models, allowing for bigger ice cream batches and the unique ability to spin specific layers within the tub.
The new Swirl by Creami incorporates a total of 13 programs, featuring two primary modes — soft serve and scoop — alongside 10 additional settings including ice cream, sorbet, lite ice cream, gelato, milkshake, frozen yogurt, fruit whip, frozen custard, and the intriguing new Creamifit setting. This last option is tailored for low-sugar, high-protein recipes, catering to users who wish to prepare their protein shakes in a dessert format. New to the machine is also a “retract” button, used to pull back the plunger after dispensing soft serve.
How does it perform?
Let’s get to the ice cream aspect now.
The initial batch I created featured a cake-batter-pistachio protein blend I concocted myself. I employed the scoop setting along with the Creamifit program due to its protein shake base. Following some trial and error, I slotted my way to a creamy and delicious ice cream.
Even with unconventional ingredients, the resulting protein ice cream was impressively smooth and sweet. After enjoying it with a friend, I reprocessed the pint using the soft-serve setting, but the texture was a bit runny for ideal soft-serve consistency. Being my inaugural attempt, I withheld final judgment, especially since it was still tasty.
While this machine isn’t silent, it operates relatively fast. It generates noise slightly above my KitchenAid mixer but quieter than my boisterous Vitamix blender. A digital countdown timer lends reassurance throughout the process, making it easier to tolerate the noise by confirming that it won’t last long.
Next, we prepared chocolate ice cream using a more conventional recipe featuring milk, sugar, and heavy cream, solely employing the soft-serve setting. The result closely mirrored traditional soft-serve, albeit with a slight meltiness. After refreezing the pint for around 30 minutes and processing it again, I achieved a texture much more reminiscent of store-bought soft serve, artfully showcasing the signature “swirl.” A sprinkle of cute decorations from Williams Sonoma completed the dish perfectly.
Does the Swirl really make instant soft-serve?
The Swirl produces ice cream resembling soft-serve in look and taste, but it does require a pre-frozen base, thus it’s not “instant” in that sense. Traditional soft-serve machines keep the ice cream at a near-frozen temperature while continuously churning and adding air, a complex task that isn’t entirely feasible for home appliances. The Creamizer paddle does infuse some air into the ice cream, giving it a soft-serve-like texture and appearance.
While the distinction of “real” soft-serve might not matter to many, and certainly not to me, the Ninja Creami Swirl does perform exceptionally well for a home appliance, eclipsing nearly all competitors in its price and dimensions.
How’s cleaning it?
Cleaning proved quite manageable; I disassembled the components and easily hand-washed them in hot water in just a few minutes. Most removable parts are also dishwasher-safe, providing an extra layer of convenience.
What I want to do next
With so many settings to explore, I’ll need time to experiment with the variety of dessert options. I’m particularly curious about its frozen yogurt capabilities, and eager to try the novel frozen custard function, as well as making Dole Whip — a personal favorite dessert that’s also delightful with a splash of rum. Keep an eye out for more updates as I dive further into its features.
The Ninja Swirl by CREAMi: Overall Pros and Cons
Pros
- Produces delicious, scoopable ice cream.
- User-friendly touch-button design.
- A diverse range of programs for creative frozen desserts.
- Perfect for crafting healthier dessert alternatives at home.
- Outperforms other home soft-serve options available.
- No need for additional ice or special mixes.
- Overall, a fun addition to the kitchen.
Cons
- Higher price range than some alternatives.
- Counter space may be a concern in smaller kitchens.
- Getting the right soft-serve texture may require experimentation.
- Cleansing the unit involves disassembling parts, though most are dishwasher-safe.
- Operational noise is notable.
Is it worth it?
If you’re prepared to invest, have sufficient counter space, and are keen on the idea of making home soft-serve, the Swirl stands out as a top contender amongst cost-friendly machines. While the soft-serve function is straightforward and adds an enjoyable touch without excessive time commitment, those more interested in the Creami’s broader versatility might find the classic or Deluxe models — at more budget-friendly prices — to be equally effective alternatives.
I anticipate using my Creami primarily for protein ice cream, but I’m excited about the prospect of hosting dinner parties where I can use this machine to serve guests delectable soft serve they can customize with premium toppings like sprinkles, cookie dough, mochi, and caramel drizzle. Sounds sophisticated, right?
The Ninja Swirl by CREAMi is available at Amazon, Walmart, and Ninja.
Source
www.eater.com