A Chef’s Guide to Exploring Philadelphia: Insights from Nok Suntaranon of Kalaya

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Chutatip “Nok” Suntaranon, the chef-owner of Kalaya, has gained a passionate following thanks to her vibrant southern Thai cuisine that boldly embraces spice and flavor. Named in honor of her mother, Kalaya serves as Nok’s creative outlet, allowing her to celebrate the tastes of her upbringing while infusing new and imaginative dishes, such as stunning shaw muang (chili-infused chicken dumplings shaped like delicate flowers) and an extravagant tom yum soup presented in a generous hot pot brimming with fresh prawns and aromatic herbs.

“I view it as a playground, not a business,” Nok expresses. “Here, I have the liberty to create whatever I envision, and that’s what fuels my passion.”

With accolades including the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic in 2023 and the publication of her debut cookbook, Kalaya’s Southern Thai Kitchen, featuring her culinary prowess in season seven of Chef’s Table, and being nominated for the 2025 James Beard semifinalist shortlist for Outstanding Restaurant, it’s evident that Nok is thriving in her culinary journey.

Sharing insights about her adopted city of Philadelphia—where she has resided for 15 years with her husband and beloved Pomeranian dogs—Nok highlights spots to eat, shop, and relax during a visit.

The Perfect Philadelphia Morning: Coffee and Canelés

Residing in the gourmet haven of South Philadelphia, Nok enjoys convenient access to some of the city’s finest cafes. Her mornings often begin at the Art Deco Bok Building, a converted high school that now serves as a vibrant creative space for artists, makers, and eateries, spanning an entire city block. “It’s my morning sanctuary,” she states. “Some people visit a temple; I go to Bok.”

There, at Two Persons Coffee, she enjoys sipping iced coffee while accompanied by her fluffy Pomeranians, TiTi and Ginji. She satisfies her pastry cravings with exquisite canelés and savory onion Danish from Machine Shop. “I’m a pastry enthusiast, and Bok is a perfect place to socialize with my dogs and friends,” she adds.

Searching for Soulful Broths and Exclusive Omakase

According to Nok, Philadelphia’s dining scene is both “dynamic and approachable,” characterized by warmth and a lack of pretentiousness. For lunch, she frequently visits Fiore, an Italian café known for its handmade pasta and pastry chef Justine MacNeil’s delightful budino di riso (rice pudding). “The menu is always evolving, which keeps me excited to discover new flavors,” she shares.

For a comforting bowl of noodle soup, her top pick is Cafe Nhạn, an unpretentious café in South Philly operated by a mother-son team, where she finds homey Vietnamese dishes. “It reminds me of my mom’s cooking,” she says. “And as an admirer of bold broths, their offerings never disappoint.”

Once a month, she enjoys a set reservation at Royal Sushi and Izakaya, where a bustling izakaya awaits in the front, complemented by a highly coveted sushi counter in the back with only eight seats. “Everything Jesse touches turns to gold,” she praises the chef-owner, Jesse Ito, who runs the establishment with his father. “I never miss his omakase. No matter how busy my restaurant is, at 7:45 PM, I prioritize it as my ‘me time.’”

The Joys of a Great Market

One of Nok’s preferred pastimes includes meandering through South Philadelphia’s historic Italian Market on 9th Street. This vibrant place, celebrated for its outstanding eateries, fresh produce, butchers, and bakeries, has roots tracing back to the 1800s, when Italian immigrants started selling goods from pushcarts.

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www.cntraveler.com