Photo credit: explorersweb.com
Carstensz Pyramid, the most elusive peak of the Seven Summits, draws a growing number of adventurers aiming to scale the highest mountain in Oceania. With this rise in interest, the incidence of accidents on the mountain is also increasing. Here, we provide a comprehensive guide outlining the expedition from base to summit, contributed by renowned expedition leader Mike Hamill.
Located on New Guinea, Carstensz Pyramid stands at 4,884 meters and is recognized by some as the peak of the seventh continent, Oceania. In contrast, many climbers designate Mount Kosciuszko in Australia, which is a more accessible 2,228 meters, as the lowest of the Seven Summits. Unlike Kosciuszko, Carstensz demands rock climbing skills, making it the most technically challenging climb among the Seven Summits.
Puncak Jaya
Historically named after Dutch explorer John Carstensz, the mountain is also referred to as Puncak Jaya, a term assigned by Indonesian communists that translates to “Peak of Victory.” Both names are currently in circulation.
Mike Hamill, second from the left, celebrates his ascent of Carstensz with fellow climbers. Photo: CT7S
The peak is situated in the central highlands of Papua Island and is a significant part of the Snow Mountains (Pegunungan Maoke) range. Carstensz Pyramid holds the distinction of being the tallest mountain between the Americas and the Himalayas, surpassing the volcano Klyuchevskaya Sopka in Russia by a mere 130 meters.
Really Understand the Challenge
The route to the summit of Carstensz Pyramid entails not only technical climbing skills but also navigating a climate that can be daunting. Climbers must acclimatize adequately, possess a resilient attitude to handle unexpected weather changes, and have a competent guide. Recent incidents, including a fatal fall and two deaths attributed to hypothermia, underscore the risks associated with this ascent.
The challenging terrain of Carstensz Pyramid. Photo: Carstensz Papua
Mike Hamill, a seasoned American mountain guide and director of Climbing The Seven Summits (CT7S), provided valuable insights into the climbing route, having recently guided teams on the mountain before heading to Everest.
Political and Geographical Complexities
Although Carstensz can be climbed year-round, the majority of expeditions favor the drier months from February to November. However, climbers should anticipate rain, particularly in the afternoon hours throughout the year.
“Don’t underestimate the chill that accompanies altitude on Carstensz, regardless of its tropical setting,” cautions Mike Hamill.
Carstensz Pyramid is located on Papua, to the west of Papua New Guinea, Indonesia. OpenStreetmaps
The mountain had been inaccessible to foreign climbers for years due to political tensions and the COVID-19 pandemic, only reopening briefly in late 2024.
“There’s no certainty it will remain open, so it’s advisable for climbers to seize the opportunity while it lasts,” Hamill notes.
He emphasizes the complexities involved in obtaining permits, which require coordination with multiple local authorities, including municipal governments, police, and military personnel. Additionally, the region experiences civil unrest, with frequent conflicts between Papuan independence rebels and Indonesian forces. Security risks are amplified around the Grasberg mine, known for its vast deposits of gold and copper.
Hamill warns that local tourism operators often engage in political maneuvering, corruption, and sabotage that can impact the safety and reliability of expeditions for those coming from abroad.
Optimal Access
The safest and most efficient way to reach the mountain is by helicopter to the base camp.
“Trekking to the mountain has not been done by foreigners for many years due to instability and the need to traverse land owned by the Grasberg mine,” he explains. “There have also been instances of kidnappings by Papuan rebels in recent years in neighboring regions, making trekking unsafe.”
Climbers opt for helicopter transport to Base Camp for enhanced safety. Mike Hamill is in the center. Photo: CT7S
Those expecting luxurious accommodations akin to those found on Everest should prepare for a more rugged experience. Base camp is simple and functional, as supplies are helicoptered in.
“Here, everyone sleeps in tents and dines in basic dome tents,” Hamill describes. “There’s a stark contrast to the opulence seen at other Seven Summits base camps.”
Climbers typically undergo a period of acclimatization for a few days at base camp before making the ascent, which generally takes 6 to 10 hours to reach the summit and around half that time for the descent. Depending on the weather and logistical constraints, acclimatization could extend from two days to over one week.
Preparing for the summit climb. Photo: CT7S
Adventurous Climb Ahead
The ascent of Carstensz Pyramid is notoriously steep and requires skilled navigation.
“The route includes rock and scree terraces that cut through the expansive rock face leading to the summit,” explains Hamill.
Climb ropes are fixed along the route, which climbers use to scale the steep sections. The rocky terrain is sharp, and rockfalls can occur. Climbers will also encounter several rope bridges over exposed areas once they reach the summit ridge.
Navigating a technical section of Carstensz Pyramid. Photo: CT7S
Hamill warns that Carstensz Pyramid’s technical nature is a serious consideration.
“Not everyone is suited for this climb. Potential climbers should possess rock climbing experience and be adept with fixed lines, harnesses, knots, and hitches. Physical fitness is crucial for summit day, which poses challenges at high altitude,” says Hamill.
Traversing along the Pyramid’s expanse. Photo: CT7S
He also stresses the importance of preparation, noting that recent fatalities linked to local Indonesian operators highlight the necessity of thorough research into the guiding companies and their reputations.
Practical Guidance
Photo: CT7S
- Bring multiple pairs of gloves to manage the wet conditions; it can be crucial for warmth during rain.
- Expect rain consistently; plan for potential delays in flights due to weather.
- Prepare for a significant change in altitude from Timika to base camp—consider pre-acclimatization techniques to ease the transition.
- Maintain a low profile in Timika and behave appropriately, as the region is known for its conservatism.
- Be flexible and ready for unpredictability, embracing the essence of true adventure travel. Prioritize safety and collaborate with knowledgeable guides.
- Consider visiting Bali before or after your expedition for relaxation, featuring great food and beautiful landscapes.
Source
explorersweb.com