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The Legacy of Hristo Prodanov: A Pioneering Ascent on the Everest West Ridge

Earlier in the week, we reflected on the groundbreaking ascent of Everest’s West Ridge Direct route in 1979. A notable highlight followed in 1984, when Bulgarian alpinist Hristo Prodanov completed the only subsequent climb of this challenging route, making history by summiting solo and without supplemental oxygen.

Hristo Prodanov. Photo: Epicenter

Background of Hristo Prodanov

Hristo Prodanov was born on February 24, 1943, in Karlovo, Bulgaria. He was initially trained as a metallurgical engineer, but his real calling was in mountaineering. His climbing journey began in 1958, primarily in Bulgaria’s Pirin Mountains, where he quickly established himself as one of the country’s leading climbers.

From 1967 to 1977, Prodanov achieved a number of significant climbs throughout the Alps. His notable ascents included the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses via the Walker Spur in 1967 and the Petit Dru by the Bonatti Pillar in 1968. In 1969, he climbed the difficult Freney Pillar of Mont Blanc and later conquered the North Face of the Matterhorn in 1974, along with the Petit Dru via the Guides Route in 1977.

Prodanov also explored the Caucasus region, completing the Ushba Pillar ascent in 1970 and a traverse on Shkhelda in 1973. His high-altitude adventures began in earnest in 1975 when he sought to climb peaks above 7,000 meters. Among his accomplishments was the summit of Lenin Peak (7,134m) in 1981, making him the first Bulgarian to reach an 8,000m peak with his ascent of Lhotse (8,516m) that same year, again without supplemental oxygen.

Everest West Ridge. Photo: Ed Webster

The 1984 Everest Expedition

In the spring of 1984, under the leadership of Avram Iliev Avramov with Prodanov as deputy leader, a Bulgarian expedition embarked on an ambitious journey to Everest. The group set up Base Camp on March 18, comprising 24 Bulgarians, several Nepalese climbers, and sherpas to assist with logistics and transport. Opting for the challenging West Ridge Direct route, the team aimed to achieve a remarkable ascent.

During this climbing season, other expeditions also targeted Everest from the Nepalese and Tibetan sides. On the Nepalese flank, the Bulgarians shared the mountain with an Indian team pursuing the standard South Col-Southeast Ridge route.

The 1984 Bulgarian team. Photo: Bulgarian History

Progress Along the Route

By March 21, the Bulgarian team had established Camp 1 at Lho La (6,050m) with assistance from their sherpa members. In the following days, they climbed higher, setting up Camp 2 at 6,770m, where they created a spacious snow cave for their collective use. They continued their upward progression, establishing Camp 3 at 7,170m and, later, Camp 4 at 7,520m.

On April 19, Prodanov and Chowang Rinzi reached an impressive 8,120m, setting up Camp 5 as the two made significant strides toward the summit. Meanwhile, other expedition members settled into the lower camps to manage supplies.

Hristo Prodanov. Photo: Epicenter

The Summit Attempt

On April 20, the summit push commenced early in clear, cold weather. Prodanov and Chowang Rinzi departed from Camp 5 at 5:45 AM, forgoing supplemental oxygen. However, by mid-morning, Chowang Rinzi faced difficulties and turned back while Prodanov pressed on alone.

Establishing radio communication from 8,550m, Prodanov reported making steady progress. By 6:10 PM, he reached the summit, where he discovered remnants left by previous climbers, including oxygen bottles and a Soviet flag, from which he took a piece as a memento.

His successful ascent made him the first Bulgarian climber to reach the summit of Everest, and it marked the first recorded ascent of the mountain in April.

Looking down the West Ridge from close to 8,000m. Photo: Explore7Summits

The Descent

As night fell on April 20, Prodanov communicated his plan to bivouac due to darkness. The following day, he maintained contact with Base Camp, although signs of exhaustion became increasingly evident. He lamented losing his gloves and struggled with basic functions due to the extreme altitude.

At 7:45 PM on April 21, Prodanov attempted to make contact but was too weak to speak, and subsequent communication ceased as the weather deteriorated.

Lho La in morning cloud. The start of the West Ridge Direct is in shadow on the far left. Photo: Explore7summits

Rescue Efforts

On April 21, rescue operations commenced. Lyudmil Yankov ascended rapidly, reaching 8,500m in desperate attempts to locate Prodanov. The conditions made recovery efforts perilous, yet Yankov continued to converse with Prodanov in an effort to keep his spirits up.

Eventually, severe weather conditions forced Yankov to descend with frostbite injuries after his futile search. According to reports, Prodanov was aware of his precarious situation, indicating he understood that help was unlikely to reach him in time.

Lyudmil Yankov, the climber who tried to rescue Prodanov. Photo: 360mag bg

Despite having survived over 50 hours in the death zone, Prodanov ultimately succumbed, with his body never recovered. The harsh weather on April 22 further hindered any ongoing rescue efforts.

The Second Summit Attempt

On May 1, another team of climbers initiated their summit attempt. After restocking supplies at Camp 5 by May 7, Metodi Savov and Ivan Valtchev began their climb on May 8, achieving the summit amidst challenging conditions.

They descended via the Southeast Ridge, where exhaustion set in, forcing them to spend the night exposed and without oxygen before being located and assisted by other teams on May 9.

Eventually, with help from the Indian expedition, they completed their descent together, showcasing remarkable teamwork among climbers.

The West Ridge. Photo: Kilian Jornet

A Landmark Achievement

Prodanov’s accomplishment remains a remarkable milestone in mountaineering, as he continues to be recognized as the first and only climber to summit the West Ridge Direct without supplemental oxygen. His legacy is tinged with tragedy, evidenced by the fact that he perished on his descent, leaving no trace behind.

His contributions to climbing were celebrated posthumously when he was named the “Number 1 Bulgarian Mountaineer of the 20th Century” and honored as a Hero of the People’s Republic of Bulgaria in 1984.

Savov and Valtchev’s successful summit and descent solidified the Bulgarian team’s achievements, marking a historical moment for the nation.

Diverse Route Interpretations on Everest’s West Ridge

Previous climbs of the West Ridge have taken different forms, with climbers approaching it from various routes. Notably, the 1963 ascent by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld deviated from what would later be defined as the “Direct” route.

The 1979 Yugoslav expedition achieved the initial complete ascent of the West Ridge, while Prodanov’s 1984 climb presented a new challenge as they followed the West Ridge proper without diverging into the Hornbein Couloir.

Hristo Prodanov. Photo: Trifon Djambazov

A Repeating Tragedy

Tragically, Hristo Prodanov’s legacy lived on in the spring of 2004 when his niece, Mariana Prodanova Maslarova, attempted a similar ascent of Everest to commemorate her uncle on the 20th anniversary of his climactic climb. Much like Prodanov, she attempted the ascent without supplemental oxygen but disappeared at 8,700m, presumed lost to the elements.

Statue of Hristo Prodanov in Karlovo, Bulgaria. Photo: Wikipedia

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