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Revisiting Buenos Aires: A Journey Through Time and Change
“Volver,” a classic tango released in 1935, serves as the unofficial anthem of Buenos Aires, capturing the bittersweet feelings associated with returning to the city after years away. Originating from the voice of Carlos Gardel, its poignant lyrics remind listeners that “20 years is nothing.” For a traveler like me, almost three decades had passed since my last exploration of Buenos Aires, a city I once ventured to with aspirations of becoming a foreign correspondent. I recall the vibrant local culture, the spirited nightlife, and the rich blend of European and Latin heritage that enveloped me as I settled in San Telmo with a fellow journalist.
The landscape of Buenos Aires mirrored its historical complexities, with the city still recovering from the oppressive military junta of the late ’70s and early ’80s, during which around 30,000 individuals disappeared. Throughout my initial time here, the city exuded both nostalgia and vibrancy, from its unique cuisine, best known for steak and chimichurri, to underground artistic venues like Parakultural. My memories are imbued with the charm of a bygone era; many aspects of the city felt as if they had been frozen in time since the 1930s.
As I approached the city again from the airport in a taxi, my apprehensions faded while traversing the expansive 9 de Julio Avenue, famously the widest in the world. The iconic obelisk greeted me as a reminder of the city’s storied past. Surprisingly, Buenos Aires appeared more open and filled with greenery than I’d remembered, with jacaranda trees in full bloom. Traffic flowed more smoothly, a positive outcome attributed to recent infrastructural developments. Yet, while some changes were apparent, the architectural beauty characterized by its neoclassical structures from the late 19th and early 20th centuries remained unchanged, evoking the wealth that once flourished from beef exports.
This visit held its own unique charm. In my younger days, my modest home was affectionately dubbed the Bolívar Palace during my bohemian adventures. Now, I found myself in the historic Palacio Duhau, an opulent establishment reminiscent of French grandeur, located in the upscale Recoleta neighborhood. Dining at Gioia Cocina Botánica within its gardens, I was taken aback to discover a menu highlighting haute-vegetarian cuisine—a surprising departure from the traditional meat-focused fare.
From my suite’s balcony, I could catch glimpses of the stunning Residencia Maguire, a Gothic mansion with a story of its own, juxtaposed against the tranquil Recoleta cemetery, where Evita Perón rests. What once was a familiar theater from my past has now blossomed into the El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore, complete with its opulent decor. Meanwhile, enchanting spots like Florería Atlántico, a florist concealing a lively gin bar, brought an exciting novelty to the area.
Venturing back to San Telmo, the city’s original bohemian heart, I was struck by the quietude of its once-bustling streets, now partially free of the tumultuous traffic that characterized my first visit. Yet nearby, the area thrived with tourists flocking to the historic market, now transformed into a chic food court.
Further explorations led me to La Boca, a neighborhood renowned for its vibrant, artistic alleyways—still echoing the spirit of tango’s origins. Once a hub for weary European immigrants yearning for home, the area now flourishes with museums. While tango performances have become a popular tourist attraction, the essence of authentic tango lives on in local milongas, gathering spots where amateurs come together to dance.
A local musician and friend had recommended a lively spot in Almagro, the neighborhood once frequented by Gardel himself. Sanata resonated with life as I entered; the essence of tango alive in the air, energizing an ambiance filled with murals and collective memories. Inside the vibrant scene, couples danced gracefully while a four-piece band played heart-wrenching tango melodies. According to co-manager Gloria Buccella, the revival of tango post-2001 was sparked by a collective desire among younger generations to reconnect with their cultural roots after economic turmoil transformed the nation.
What began as a whimsical night soon evolved into a tango escapade. We ventured to El Boliche de Roberto, where young Gardel once graced the stage, and later into La Catedral Club, a hidden gem located in a repurposed dairy factory. The club pulsated with life well into the early morning, reminding me of the city’s uncanny ability to bring together artists and dreamers, transcending time and space.
My journey through Buenos Aires has unveiled a city that gracefully balances its rich history with modernity, a place where the soulful echoes of tango continue to resonate—both in its streets and in the hearts of its people.
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www.cntraveler.com