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Henji Cheung, the James Beard-nominated co-owner and executive chef of Queen’s English in Washington D.C., describes the restaurant’s concept as an intriguing blend of Eastern and Western culinary traditions. The menu is inspired by his experiences growing up in Hong Kong, where he was introduced to vibrant Asian flavors, and later honed his skills in Italian and French kitchens.
At Queen’s English, preparation begins early, especially with highlights like the claypot rabbit. Cheung expertly breaks down a rabbit and braises it in a fusion of two mirepoix bases—one Chinese, featuring scallions, garlic, and ginger, and the other European, composed of carrots, celery, and onion. This mixture is cooked in a wok before the rabbit is added along with a generous amount of Shaoxing wine. Another signature offering is the truffle dumplings, which feature a filling of edamame, shallots, and tofu enhanced by truffle sauce. These dumplings are pan-fried and topped with Saba (an Italian grape must) and a sweet corn espuma for an added twist.
Since its establishment in 2019, Queen’s English has adopted a work philosophy that is “prep heavy, service fast.” The constraints of the small kitchen and Cantonese menu necessitate this focus on efficiency. Cheung utilizes high heat, with burners reaching up to 175,000 BTU, creating a sound reminiscent of a jet engine that invigorates every dish on the menu. This intense heat, referred to as wok hei, is crucial for imparting flavor and texture to the prepped ingredients and finished dishes.
Cheung launched Queen’s English with his wife Sarah Thompson, a Michelin award-winning sommelier who not only manages the beverage program but also contributes to the culinary creativity, such as in the daikon fritters. Cheung emphasizes that their ambition was never to create a restaurant empire. “We appreciate the intimate stage we have created here,” he remarked. “Every day is an opportunity to perform on this little stage we’ve built.”
To explore Cheung’s cooking techniques and how he prepares for a bustling night service, viewers can tune into the latest episode of Experts, showcasing the art of wok-seared truffle dumplings, daikon fritters, fried whole branzino, and the satisfying claypot rabbit.
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www.eater.com