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Pressure Cooking a Taiwanese Classic: Lu Rou Fan

Why It Works

Using a pressure cooker, like the Instant Pot, significantly cuts down the cooking time while allowing the pork to fully absorb the rich flavors of the braising sauce. By cutting the pork belly into small, uniform pieces, you achieve a texture that melts in your mouth.

As a new mother, the value of time became much clearer to me. I quickly realized the need for efficient cooking methods, especially during my son’s short naps. To streamline my meal prep, I adapted various recipes, including beef noodle soup and congee, to suit the Instant Pot. One of the first dishes I reworked was lu rou fan, a beloved Taiwanese braised minced pork belly dish that has been a kitchen staple for years.

The initial version of this dish appears in my cookbook Made in Taiwan: Recipes and Stories From the Island Nation. I learned the art of creating this dish from Lin Tai-Yu, known as Gloj, the third-generation owner of Lin Family Braised Pork Over Rice in Tainan, Taiwan. Gloj meticulously cooks hand-diced pork in a blend of soy sauce, fried shallots, garlic, rice wine, and sugar. He emphasizes the importance of using high-fat pork belly, finely diced, and simmered over low heat for an extended time to achieve a silky sauce.

In those pre-motherhood days, I embraced Gloj’s wisdom wholeheartedly. I took my time to cut the pork belly into small cubes, render the fat in a wok, and combine it with the soy sauce and other aromatics. After simmering with the lid slightly ajar for several hours, the sauce thickened into a luscious balance of sweet and savory. This method allowed for slow evaporation, which concentrated the flavors perfectly without losing too much moisture. However, the demands of parenting meant I needed a more time-efficient solution, leading me to the Instant Pot.

The main advantage of using an Instant Pot is its hands-off nature, significantly reducing cooking time. There’s no need for constant monitoring to prevent the pork from sticking or burning. After browning the pork and aromatics using the sauté function, you can lock the lid and rest easy, knowing dinner will be ready in just over an hour. During that time, feel free to prepare rice or any side dishes that complement the pork.

Adapting a Taiwanese Classic for the Pressure Cooker

While many experienced chefs advocate for the traditional slow simmer on the stovetop, the pressure cooker brings a different dynamic to the dish. The quick cooking process alters the way flavors develop since there’s no constant evaporation, resulting in a sauce that may not become as thick. Although the aromatics are briefly bloomed initially, they won’t caramelize to the same depth of flavor as they would over a long, gentle heat.

Another aspect to consider is the ability to taste and adjust seasoning throughout the stovetop cooking process. In contrast, pressure cooking leaves limited room for on-the-fly adjustments. Nevertheless, by following a few key tips, you can create a braise that rivals its stovetop counterpart, keeping in mind that different pressure cookers may require slight variations in cooking time and sauce reduction.

The Size of the Pork Matters

Chopping the pork belly into uniform, small pieces is crucial for even cooking and maximum sauce absorption. As the pork cooks, the fat renders, contributing to a soft texture in the braise. If the pork is cut unevenly, you risk ending up with a chunkier sauce that loses its desired velvety quality.

A sharp knife is vital for achieving ideal cuts. To facilitate this, I often freeze the pork belly for about an hour, making it firmer yet still manageable to dice. Alternatively, a friendly local butcher might assist in dicing the pork and vacuum sealing it for convenient storage. Keeping bags of diced pork belly on hand means you can whip up lu rou fan any time.

Getting the Braising Sauce Right

The sauce plays a pivotal role in this dish. While sugar and soy sauce form the foundation, I prefer using oyster sauce for added depth instead of the traditional soy paste. Rice wine adds complexity, and a generous portion of fried shallots contributes rich, savory undertones with a hint of caramelization.

When using the pressure cooker, less liquid is required compared to the stovetop method. Just enough liquid should be used to cover the pork, ensuring thorough cooking. The pressure cooker melds the rendered fat, tender pork belly, and the aromatic braising liquid into a cohesive dish. Although this preparation method departs from traditional practices, it is no less delicious and cuts the cooking time significantly.

A Classic Taiwanese Pork Braise, Reimagined for the Instant Pot

**Ingredients:**

• 2 pounds (906 g) skin-off pork belly, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 3 medium cloves garlic (15 g), peeled and minced
• 1 1/4 cups (295 ml) water
• 1/2 cup fried shallots (1 1/2 ounces; 40 g), homemade or store-bought
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) all-purpose soy sauce, such as Kikkoman
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar (1 ounce; 30 g)
• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce (1 ounce; 30 g)
• 2 tablespoons (30 ml) rice wine, such as Taiwanese michiu or cooking sake
• Cooked white rice, for serving

In an electric multicooker (like an Instant Pot) set to sauté, cook the pork belly, stirring frequently, until it loses its pink color and some fat has rendered, about 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and continue cooking, stirring until fragrant, around 1 minute.

Next, add the water, fried shallots, soy sauce, sugar, oyster sauce, and rice wine. Seal the cooker, bring it to high pressure, and cook for 40 minutes. After cooking, allow the cooker to depressurize naturally for 30 to 45 minutes.

Once you open the cooker, stir everything well. If a thicker sauce is desired, switch to the sauté function and simmer the sauce for an additional 15 minutes until it reaches the right consistency. Serve it over freshly cooked white rice.

Special Equipment

Electric multicooker, such as an Instant Pot

Notes

Having tested this recipe numerous times on both stovetop and pressure cooker, I found that the ideal ratio of soy sauce to water can vary based on the brand of soy sauce and personal taste preferences. I usually opt for Kikkoman, but if using low-sodium soy sauce or one with added sugars, you may need to adjust the final seasoning. This dish is more an art than a precise science, so feel free to tweak the ingredients to suit your palate.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Leftover lu rou fan stores exceptionally well in the refrigerator or freezer. It can be kept in an airtight container in the fridge for up to three days or frozen for up to three months. When freezing, portion it out for convenience and thaw in the refrigerator. Reheat by simmering over medium heat or microwaving until heated through.

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