After 20 Years in Wilmington, North Carolina: My Top Reasons for Travelers to Visit

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Wilmington, North Carolina, often remains under the radar for many Americans, despite being a storied city with over 300 years of history as a colonial port. Many individuals may be unfamiliar with its significance, which can lead to puzzled expressions when residents share their hometown. Over my two decades here, I’ve frequently encountered this lack of awareness.

Some may recall Wilmington as a charming beach destination featuring an intriguing old district by the river. Once dubbed “the Port City of Progress and Pleasure,” many residents overlook the bustling port activities, focusing instead on the pleasures the city has to offer.

Despite this ambiguity, Wilmington possesses a distinct charm, potentially due to its understated nature compared to other Southern coastal cities. It embodies a relaxed vibe that invites exploration, rewarding those who venture beyond the surface.

As a history enthusiast, my preference leans toward downtown Wilmington rather than its famous beaches. The riverfront area boasts a grid of 19th-century commercial structures, while the neighboring blocks feature some of the city’s oldest homes. Surviving only a handful of pre-Revolutionary War buildings, the area includes grand 18th-century residences that provide a glimpse into Wilmington’s past. Notably, the Mitchell-Anderson House, which dates back to the 1730s, showcases a ballast-stone foundation, a remnant of ships that carried stones from England to aid in their stability during voyages. Once docked, these stones were repurposed for construction.

Visitors may be drawn to remnants of the antebellum South, which are abundant in Wilmington. Horse-drawn carriage tours meander leisurely along brick streets, while ghost tours reveal stories, many involving pirates—though the city’s pirate history is rather scarce. I recommend a visit to the Burgwin-Wright House & Gardens, constructed around 1770, which served as the British headquarters during their occupation in the Revolutionary War. Additionally, night tours of the Latimer House, built in the 1850s, provide insights into how these historic homes appeared under gas lamp light.

The Bellamy Mansion, with its iconic white columns, sits at Fifth and Market streets and includes preserved slave quarters, showcasing the craftsmanship of enslaved and free Black artisans. An intriguing discovery made as recent as 2002 revealed that William B. Gould, an escaped enslaved person who served in the Union Navy, had left his initials behind a piece of ornamental plasterwork.

This discovery symbolizes a broader theme in Wilmington, where the narratives of Black history remain evident, often overshadowed by the façade of the Old South. As societal awareness of the city’s tumultuous racial history grows, events like the 1898 massacre by a white supremacist mob have gained more attention, highlighted in Pulitzer Prize-winning literature such as David Zucchino’s Wilmington’s Lie. Today, life in Wilmington includes a reckoning with its complex past.

Related: U.S. Road Trips That Honor and Celebrate Black History

For those interested in exploring Wilmington’s African-American heritage beyond the historical violence, the WilmingtoNColor tour is a meaningful option. Created by local entrepreneur Cedric Harrison, this initiative aims to educate others about the city’s rich culture. After acquiring a decommissioned transit bus, Harrison began offering tours infused with local history and social justice themes.

The vibrant exterior of the bus showcases notable Black figures from the city, including newspaper editor Alex Manly, whose Daily Record was tragically destroyed during the 1898 massacre, along with inventor and artist Minnie Evans. The tour also honors basketball legend Michael Jordan, who has roots in Wilmington and returned to inaugurate a medical clinic bearing his name.

Related: The Perfect Itinerary for North Carolina’s Inner Banks

Harrison’s knowledgeable guides provide insights into Wilmington’s Black history and help visitors uncover significant sites that may go unnoticed, such as the former location of the Daily Record or Williston Middle School, which was once a prominent Black school in the South. This institution nurtured many talents, including pioneers in jazz music and sports, like Percy and Jimmy Heath and Althea Gibson, the first Black tennis champion at Wimbledon. Harrison notes that many participants express surprise at the lack of this history in school curricula.

Wilmington’s Cameron Art Museum, located on the historical site of the Battle of Forks Road, features a permanent sculpture that honors the Black troops who fought there, serving as a reminder of the city’s diverse narratives.

Wilmington is not typically highlighted on culinary maps of the U.S., but its food scene is undergoing a transformation.

Many visitors flock to Wilmington for its stunning natural landscapes. Public beaches, particularly Wrightsville Beach, offer pristine sands and clear waters, ideal for both relaxation and recreational activities, such as surfing. The four-mile stretch remains uncrowded even in peak seasons. Nearby, Carolina Beach evokes a nostalgic 1950s ambiance, featuring quaint beach shacks and a seasonal amusement park.

The surrounding countryside offers unique discoveries—its flat terrain and sandy conditions yield unexpected charms. One highlight is a kayak excursion to a bald cypress tree on the Black River, possibly one of the oldest living organisms in North Carolina. During the trip, we encountered local wildlife and the majestic cypress, with its glistening bark and sprawling roots providing a stunning landscape.

Wilmington’s rare Venus flytraps grow only in this region, making it a unique natural attraction. Friends visiting often marvel at these carnivorous plants in their natural habitat. Extensive research has unveiled fascinating aspects of flytraps, such as their ability to count and respond to stimuli, distinguishing between insects and raindrops, showcasing a complex form of plant behavior. The Stanley Rehder Carnivorous Plant Garden is an ideal spot to explore these fascinating species.

Although Wilmington generally lacks recognition for its culinary offerings, the dining landscape has evolved. When I relocated here, options for food enthusiasts were scarce, aside from the local barbecue, characterized by its vinegar-based sauce and distinctive hush puppies. Unique to Eastern North Carolina, the barbecue sandwich is served with slaw atop the meat, a combination that surprisingly satisfies.

One favored barbecue establishment, Parchie’s, closed during the pandemic, leaving Jackson’s Big Oak Barbecue as a dependable choice for classic barbecue fare.

Additionally, two soul food restaurants have thrived. Nippy’s Soul Food offers traditional dishes that remind patrons of home, while Truck’s Chicken ‘n Fish serves outstanding fried catfish alongside sweet tea.

Related: I’ve Lived in North Carolina My Whole Life, and These Are The Most Underrated Destinations in the State

The last few years have seen a culinary renaissance in Wilmington, with an influx of impressive dining establishments. Caprice Bistro, a French restaurant renowned for its quality, consistently delivers classic dishes, while Manna remains a staple of fine dining. The newcomer, Seabird, has even garnered accolades, with its head chef being a James Beard Award finalist.

In a memorable experience, I accompanied one of Seabird’s suppliers on an oyster harvesting trip, relishing the fresh oysters right from the water, highlighting the restaurant’s focus on local and sustainable ingredients.

Wilmington captivates with its unique character, inviting exploration before its true potential is fully realized.

A hidden gem near Wilmington is Bald Head Island, located approximately 40 miles south. The ferry ride from Southport reveals a pristine nature preserve where visitors can encounter well-preserved ecosystems. The iconic Old Baldy lighthouse, which celebrated its 200th anniversary in 2017, offers sweeping views of the surroundings without the noise of cars, creating a serene environment for visitors to explore.

Wilmington is a fascinating city with a current population of around 120,000, which can swell with college students and summer tourists. I first visited with writing ambitions two decades ago; while you may find yourself enamored with the city, navigating the current housing challenges may sway your visit to a shorter one. Nevertheless, Wilmington presents an idyllic escape.

Where to Stay

Blockade Runner Beach Resort

This well-known establishment on Wrightsville Beach has been a staple since its 1964 opening. With the Atlantic on one side and Wrightsville Sound on the other, it’s perfect for those seeking beach activities. Recent renovations have revitalized the property.

Dreamers by DW

This charming Queen Anne-style home has been transformed into a cozy haven with five beautifully decorated guest rooms, offering a fresh and airy atmosphere.

The Hive

Consisting of fifteen unique suites equipped with kitchenettes, this renovated industrial building is just a short walk from the riverfront.

The Inn at Bald Head Island

This delightful 10-suite bed-and-breakfast located near the ferry landing offers an authentic Southern coastal experience, complete with a relaxing terrace.

Where to Eat

Britt’s Donut Shop

This beloved establishment has been serving its iconic original glazed donuts since 1939.

Caprice Bistro

Enjoy classic French cuisine, including duck confit and steak frites, thoughtfully prepared with finesse.

Jackson’s Big Oak Barbecue

A local favorite for authentic barbecue, offering dishes like fried chicken and signature desserts.

Manna

This restaurant features innovative takes on American classics, accompanied by an impressive cocktail menu.

Nippy’s Soul Food

This family-run establishment allows patrons to contribute to the community by pre-purchasing meals for those in need.

PinPoint Restaurant

Chef Cameron Garvey crafts a menu of dynamic American dishes with a contemporary twist.

Seabird

Chef Dean Neff specializes in fresh, inventive seafood, featuring dishes like swordfish schnitzel and smoked catfish.

Truck’s Chicken ‘n Fish

This popular spot serves soul food with standout fried catfish and acclaimed mac and cheese.

What to Do

Bellamy Mansion Museum

Take a self-guided tour through this opulent mid-19th-century mansion, exploring both the family’s quarters and those of their enslaved workers.

Burgwin-Wright House & Gardens

This colonial-era site is surrounded by lush grounds that reflect 18th-century gardening practices.

Cameron Art Museum

An eclectic art venue featuring a diverse collection, including works by Mary Cassatt and Robert Rauschenberg, along with a study center dedicated to Minnie Evans.

Latimer House Museum

This residence offers insights into Wilmington’s Victorian heritage, showcasing a well-preserved example of 1850s architecture.

Stanley Rehder Carnivorous Plant Garden

Dedicated to carnivorous plants, this small garden showcases a variety of species, including the infamous Venus flytrap.

WilmingtoNColor

Cedric Harrison guides a 70-minute bus tour focusing on Wilmington’s African-American history, from its dark past to contemporary achievements.

A version of this story first appeared in the August 2024 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “Time and Tide.”

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