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Arianne Phillips Reflects on Her Journey to the Oscars with ‘A Complete Unknown’
Receiving an Oscar nomination is a significant milestone for any professional in the film industry, but for costume designer Arianne Phillips, the four nominations she has achieved over her career have surpassed what she once imagined as an aspiring eight-year-old. As she discusses her experience during the final phase of this year’s awards season, she expresses a profound sense of gratitude and excitement.
This year, Phillips is vying for Best Costume Design for her work on the film A Complete Unknown. This nomination marks a notable return, linking back to her very first nomination for the biographical film Walk the Line, which centers around legendary musicians Johnny Cash and June Carter Cash. Phillips finds further symmetry in this year’s project as Johnny Cash is featured again as a supporting character.
“This nomination resonates similarly to my first nomination,” Phillips shares. “Additionally, this was a standout year for costume films, featuring many vibrant and richly designed works. A Complete Unknown functions as a character-driven piece, and I approach this honor with great humility and enthusiasm. The essence of this nomination extends beyond my individual accomplishment to honor my team, Jim Mangold, my community, and my family. It’s a shared excitement that reflects the collaborative journey we’ve undertaken.”
This collaboration is the sixth feature film that Phillips has worked on with director Jim Mangold. Their longstanding partnership has played a crucial role in shaping the distinctive costumes for this Bob Dylan biopic. In crafting the story, Phillips not only revived iconic looks from Dylan’s era but also infused her creativity, particularly in scenes depicting characters such as Pete Seeger and Joan Baez in more intimate contexts.
“The opportunity to explore creatively came from the trust Jim placed in me, and I believe that was also influenced by Bob’s feedback on the script,” Phillips states. “This atmosphere of encouragement is liberating; it allowed me to focus on the essence of the visuals rather than get lost in the minutiae of replication.”
Much of Phillips’s efforts revolved around extensive research. “Authenticity is paramount,” she notes. She created storyboards for nearly every scene and sought out numerous photographs of Dylan, Baez, and their contemporaries to guide her designs. Interestingly, rather than relying heavily on sourced costumes, Phillips and her team constructed about two-thirds of the wardrobe elements themselves, including Dylan’s iconic leather jacket, worn by star Timothée Chalamet during a pivotal scene set at the Newport Folk Festival in 1965.
“That particular costume holds significant narrative weight for us; it symbolizes Dylan’s transition from a solo folk performer to being part of a band,” Phillips explains. “This transformation is central to his story and reflects his desire to embrace a new direction, stepping away from the folk music persona and moving toward a more electric sound. Visually, it embodies the aspirations of a young artist and resonates with the lasting impact of Bob Dylan as a rock and roll icon.”
A Complete Unknown has garnered a total of eight Oscar nominations this year. Among these are nods for Best Picture, Best Actor for Chalamet, Best Supporting Actor for Edward Norton (who portrays Seeger), and Best Supporting Actress for Monica Barbaro (who plays Baez). Director Jim Mangold has received three nominations in various categories, underscoring the collective achievement of the film and its creative team.
Source
www.goldderby.com