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For those of us who grew up in America during the 1980s and 1990s, Rice Krispies Treats were a staple of childhood. These gooey, no-bake bars made from cereal and marshmallows were ubiquitous at potlucks, birthday celebrations, and school lunches. Along with the classic chocolate chip cookie on the back of the Toll House package, they were among the first desserts many children learned to prepare at home. However, upon revisiting the recipe with my own children, I was surprised to find that these treats, which once felt so iconic, are in fact rather average: one-dimensional in taste, prone to staleness, and ultimately unable to deliver on their nostalgic promise.
I recognize this perspective may not win me any fans. Despite being nearly 85 years since Kellogg’s first published the Rice Krispies Treats recipe, their popularity remains firmly intact. However, it raises the question of whether our fondness for these confectionery snacks truly endures or if it is merely a vestige of childhood nostalgia.
The original creation of what we now call Rice Krispies Treats traces back to home economist Mildred Day, who worked for Kellogg’s in the late 1930s. Along with collaborator Malitta Jensen, she endeavored to utilize the company’s products innovatively. According to William Sitwell’s A History of Food in 100 Recipes, Mildred Day dedicated an intensive two-week period developing what would eventually become known as Rice Krispies Treats, originally called Marshmallow Squares. The recipe transformed a wholesome breakfast cereal into a dessert that quickly gained traction, leading Kellogg’s to print it on their cereal boxes starting in 1941.
This approach was part of a broader trend in food marketing during that time. Culinary historian Sarah Lohman notes that in the early 1900s, Jell-O pioneered the method of using recipes as marketing strategies. Their companion recipe booklet, filled with elaborate illustrations of Jell-O molds, helped shift consumers’ perceptions around convenience foods. Lohman explains how such initiatives laid the groundwork for other companies to promote their products through similar recipe-driven marketing campaigns, a practice that continues in today’s food landscape.
By the time Rice Krispies Treats became mainstream, Rice Krispies cereal was already a breakfast favorite. The advent of the treats broadened the cereal’s role within American households, creating a simple yet comforting dessert option. The popularity of Rice Krispies Treats peaked in 1995 with the introduction of a single-serving packaged version by Kellogg’s, solidifying the treat’s place in American snack culture.
So why did the Rice Krispies Treats I made for my children fail to evoke the same joy I remembered? This could be attributed to an evolved palate, as tastes have become more sophisticated over the years, moving beyond the simple meat-and-potatoes meals of the past. It’s also important to note that the current Rice Krispies Treats recipe on Kellogg’s website differs from the original. The early version used notably more butter, vanilla extract, and marshmallows, whereas the current recipe has less butter and excludes vanilla entirely.
As societal attitudes toward saturated fat changed, it seems the amount of butter in Rice Krispies Treats recipes was reduced, likely contributing to a denser, overly sweet final product that loses the rich mouthfeel that butter once provided. In comparison, the packaged versions boast a softness that’s challenging to replicate in homemade versions. Thus, it’s possible that our collective concerns about health have inadvertently downgraded a nostalgic favorite.
However, since the inception of Rice Krispies Treats, home cooks have continuously sought ways to innovate the recipe. A pivotal moment occurred in 2007 when the New York Times published a recipe for Caramelized Brown Butter Rice Krispies Treats by chef Colin Alevras. By toasting the butter and mixing it with marshmallows, Alevras introduced a nuanced layer of flavor to an otherwise simple dish. Julia Moskin of the Times pointed out that this technique transformed a straightforward snack into something more sophisticated with minimal extra effort.
In 2009, the esteemed food blog Smitten Kitchen further embraced this trend with a recipe for Salted Brown Butter Crispy Treats, which garnered widespread acclaim. Deb Perelman, the blog’s founder, enthused over the results, prompting many to adopt the brown butter method, particularly among nostalgic millennials.
The introduction of brown butter has unlocked a wave of innovative interpretations for Rice Krispies Treats. A quick search reveals creative variations that include ingredients like crushed pretzels and chocolate, peanut butter, salted caramel, miso paste, sweetened condensed milk, and matcha. In a recipe featured on Serious Eats, Genevieve Yam recommends browning the butter and toasting the cereal itself to enhance the dish’s flavor and depth.
Food writer Eric Kim of the New York Times proposes a different approach with his Black Sesame Rice Krispies Treats, which integrate toasted sesame oil and seeds and offer an opportunity for adventurous cooking. Rather than attempting to fix a flawed recipe, he sees the modifications as a way to introduce new tastes to an audience already familiar with classic Rice Krispies Treats. According to Kim, these snacks serve as an entertaining avenue to incorporate novel ingredients.
Leah Koenig is a food writer and the author of seven cookbooks, most recently the IACP-award-winning book, Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen. She resides in Brooklyn, New York, with her family.
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www.eater.com