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Hale and Hearty, established in 1990, embarked on a mission to provide affordable soups with diverse options, predating the cultural phenomenon introduced by the “Soup Nazi” sketch of Seinfeld. The Original Soup Man in Midtown became an iconic tourist destination, yet Hale & Hearty carved its niche as a beloved choice among office workers seeking lunch.
The enduring appeal of soup is resurging in popularity.
Next month, founders Andrew and Jonathan Schnipper, who stepped away from Hale and Hearty before its closure in 2022, will launch Schnipper’s Quality Soups at their original headquarters located at 849 Lexington Avenue, near East 64th Street on Manhattan’s Upper East Side.
This restaurant opening aligns with the trend of new soup establishments emerging to satisfy cravings.
Schnipper’s Quality Soups will maintain a format reminiscent of its predecessor. “We are creating a soup restaurant focused on soup and its perfect companions,” Andrew Schnipper explains. The menu will feature approximately six soups, including a unique alphabet soup, along with rotating specials. He expresses excitement about their offerings: “My brother has an amazing talent for making incredible soup, and we’ve always had a passion for this dish.”
With evolving culinary preferences, Schnipper notes the current awareness of dietary needs and flavor preferences. “People are much more mindful of gluten-free options now compared to the ’90s, and soup accommodates that well,” he observes. The resurgence of bowl-centric eateries and a desire for comfort food position soup as a perfect offering as office attendance returns post-pandemic.
While Hale and Hearty has emerged from bankruptcy under new ownership, its focus has shifted towards pre-packaged soup containers for supermarkets. Recently, a takeout window opened at its Bushwick production facility, which diverges from the bustling lunch demand of Midtown.
On the Lower East Side, chef Russell Markus, recognized for his Hot Soup pop-ups, has launched a walk-up soup counter in the previous Scarr’s location, collaborating with Reid Webster of the pizza pop-up Bad Larry’s, who is providing sandwiches. This new setup allows Markus to establish a base while experimenting with recipes. Earlier this year, Vogue highlighted Markus alongside Soup Doula as individuals “suddenly making soup cool.” He remarks, “My goal was to create a simple, flavorful pop-up to serve as many diners as possible; it’s remarkable how many folks genuinely love soup.”
The sought-after sandwich and soup combination, once a staple of Manhattan lunches, is increasingly rare. Their collaborative stand at 22 Orchard Street, open for lunch over the coming months, offers a $20 combo deal featuring creative soups like red lentil with celery root and chicken broth with yuzu kosho, paired with innovative sandwiches including chicken salad laced with fish sauce.
Markus reflects on changing times: “Used to be, you could grab lunch for $12. Now, prices have skyrocketed, making lunch an expensive outing.”
Olive’s in Soho is also offering a half-sandwich and soup deal ($19) while preparing to open a new location in Tribeca. As co-owner Nick Hartman shared, “Our soup chef arrives at 3 a.m. to prepare the daily soups.” Tribeca Citizen reported on this exciting expansion.
For Tiffany Iung, the inception of Chomps Élysées originated unexpectedly. After taking over the popular Peasant Stock booth in Essex Market, she was encouraged by market officials to continue the soup tradition, which they referred to as addressing a “soup gap.” Maintaining the previous operation proved fortuitous as she was equipped with the necessary setup.
Iung has infused her personality into the stand, now decorated with a corn-themed fridge magnet and quirky lighting, serving a daily rotation of soups based on well-crafted recipes inspired by notable cookbook authors like Alison Roman.
“Our pricing remains quite reasonable,” Iung states warmly. A small 12-ounce soup is priced at $7.50, with homemade focaccia or cornbread available for only a couple of dollars more. Chomps has garnered a devoted clientele, including local educators. “When school is closed for a break, we definitely feel the impact,” she mentions.
For any soup establishment, seasonal changes pose a challenge: a sentiment echoed by Brix House, an ice cream shop in Park Slope and Prospect Lefferts Gardens. This establishment, helmed by Tara Glick—formerly of Locanda Verde and Maialino—has transmuted into a winter soup pop-up, featuring classics like Italian wedding soup.
Schnipper notes, however, “Hot soups are consistently more popular than cold varieties, even in summer; chicken noodle soup remains the go-to choice year-round.” To cope with seasonal fluctuations, they plan to introduce additional items such as smoothies.
He concludes: “Soup holds a special meaning for us here—it’s part of my love story, and my brother will be back making soups in this very spot just as he did 30 years ago.”
Source
ny.eater.com