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Nihari: Pakistan’s Cherished National Dish

Once a favored breakfast for the elite and later a beloved dish among the working class, nihari has evolved into a prominent all-day meal in Pakistan, recognized as its national dish. This slow-cooked meat stew, traditionally made with beef or lamb shanks and marrow bones, allows for various substitutions such as beef stew meat, oxtail, short ribs, or brisket. Conceptually, nihari shares similarities with global stews like goulash, pot au feu, or birria—each offering a warm, hearty, and comforting experience.

In my childhood, nihari was reserved for special occasions at the mosque, often enjoyed with naan or thick slices of French bread. My journey into cooking nihari began a decade ago, leading me to explore different preparations. I experimented with brisket influenced by Michael Solomonov’s coffee-braised version and created a unique take resembling a French dip, where the tender meat is enveloped in warm, sliced French bread, complemented by cilantro, ginger, and green chiles, with the broth served on the side for dipping. I’ve served nihari at various celebrations including Easter and Eid, as it’s a straightforward braise that can easily cater to large gatherings while evoking a festive spirit.

For me, the most complex flavor profile comes from using a homemade spice blend. However, I also appreciate the convenience of ready-made mixes, such as the Shan brand that my mother always keeps handy. This option results in a spicier dish that is quick to assemble. Beef short ribs tend to be readily available and provide an excellent balance of meat to bone, yielding a deliciously rich broth that makes for a comforting and impressive one-pot meal.

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