Photo credit: www.eater.com
Having not been introduced to babka in my early years, I initially thought little of what I had been missing. Once I discovered this delightful, yeasted, swirly bread, I often opted for store-bought versions instead of attempting to master the baking process myself.
This perception shifted dramatically when I spotted the enticing black sesame babka featured on the cover of Molly Yeh’s new cookbook, Sweet Farm. The captivating swirl lured me into trying my hand at making my very own babka.
Though I find working with yeasted dough somewhat intimidating, the added steps of rolling, spreading, and shaping increased my apprehension. I decided to rely on Yeh’s expertise, knowing that as the creator of the recipe, she would have invaluable advice to ensure a smooth baking experience.
Yeh’s black sesame babka is crafted using an enriched dough, incorporating butter, sugar, and eggs with the yeast and flour. This results in a texture akin to milk bread. Rather than the traditional tangzhong method, Yeh employs potato flour to maintain moisture. “Potato flour keeps things soft and retains more moisture than regular all-purpose or bread flour,” Yeh notes. “It’s like an insurance policy against a dry dough.”
One of Yeh’s key recommendations was to measure ingredients by weight rather than volume. “This will simplify your work and lead to more consistent results,” she advises. I carefully weighed my bread flour, sugar, and butter. Lacking potato flour — which I couldn’t locate — I chose to use instant mashed potato flakes, an alternative suggested in her recipe.
I placed most ingredients into the stand mixer, saving the butter for gradual addition later. Kneading by hand was discouraged by Yeh, who emphasized that a stand mixer simplifies the task. “Kneading by hand may lead to excessive stickiness, requiring more flour than necessary,” she explains. My experience confirmed that using the stand mixer made the process significantly easier.
Yeh highlights the necessity of incorporating butter into the dough slowly, ensuring it is fully absorbed before adding more. Kneading took about 20 minutes, including breaks to observe the dough as it absorbed the butter.
“Give yourself ample time for kneading, as this develops strong gluten strands,” Yeh advises. “Those gluten strands are crucial for trapping air bubbles during rising and baking. If they’re underdeveloped, the result will be dense and unpleasing.” One way to check if the dough is ready is the window pane test: if a piece can stretch thin enough to see light without tearing, it’s ready.
After achieving a smooth dough, it was time to let it rest. I placed it in an oiled bowl, covering it with plastic wrap and a kitchen towel. With a comfortably warm home, I allowed it to rise in the kitchen. In cooler conditions, placing the dough in a proofing drawer or a closed oven with a pot of boiling water is advisable; the steam will create the ideal rising environment.
Preparing the filling was straightforward. I mixed room-temperature butter with coconut oil, ground black sesame seeds, sugar, salt, and orange zest. Lacking a spice grinder, I used a small food processor to grind the black sesame, producing a coarser texture than preferred, yet still effective.
I aimed for the dough to double in size, which took roughly two and a half hours. Rolling the dough onto a floured surface, I attempted to shape it into a 10-by-22-inch rectangle, although it resembled more of a squiggly blob than a perfect rectangle. It’s vital to maintain an even thickness, as I learned the hard way when the dough split during baking—a mainly aesthetic issue, but one worth noting.
With the dough shaped, it was time to apply the filling with an offset spatula. This step underscored the need for finely ground black sesame, as spreading the filling without tearing the dough proved somewhat tricky. The inclusion of orange zest was an unexpected but delightful touch, enhancing the aroma when combined with the nutty sesame. After evenly spreading, I topped the filling with crushed Oreos for an added cocoa flavor.
I then rolled the dough from the bottom to the top, similar to forming cinnamon rolls. After cutting it in half lengthwise, I had seen other babka-makers twist their dough to showcase the filling. I chose to spread some reserved filling on one half and twist it with the other. Once intertwined and placed in the loaf pan, it was time for a second proofing.
Yeh suggests letting the babka proof overnight in the refrigerator to slow its rise and allow for deeper flavor development. “That yeast flavor takes time to cultivate,” she explains. However, my impatience got the best of me, and I opted for a quick hour-long proof on the counter instead. It was puffy and ready by the end of the hour.
Finishing touches varied by recipe; some babkas receive a syrup glaze while others a crumb topping. Yeh’s recipe called for a mixture of flour, powdered sugar, black sesame seeds, and butter, which I generously sprinkled over the egg-washed loaf before placing it in the oven at 350 degrees for 40 minutes. The aroma wafting through the house was nothing short of bakery-like.
When the loaf emerged from the oven, it was beautifully browned with glistening sesame clusters atop. Surprisingly, the toughest part of the entire process was not the twisting or spreading, but the wait before slicing. Though I managed to hold off for just 20 minutes—definitely premature for enjoying the perfect swirl—a warm bite of babka rich with earthy black sesame and a hint of orange zest made the effort worthwhile.
The loaf disappeared within 24 hours, prompting thoughts of doubling the recipe for next time. Already, plans for my next baking adventure are forming.
In conclusion, if you’re searching for a baking challenge that will impress, babka is an excellent choice. The variations are endless; it doesn’t have to be a sweet creation or even solely black sesame. “I’ve made a pimento cheese babka before, and Deb Perelman has crafted a bialy babka,” Yeh shares. “Nothing compares to a homemade babka fresh from the oven.”
Source
www.eater.com