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Revitalizing Baltimore: A Journey Through Its Evolving Landscape

The Latrobe Building, located in the heart of Baltimore, has served as a potent symbol of the city’s evolving narrative. Originally inaugurated in 1912, this grand structure was designed as luxurious apartments for prosperous young men amidst the bustling activity of a thriving port. However, over the decades, Baltimore’s economic fluctuations mirrored the fortunes of the Latrobe, which transformed from a prestigious residence into a flophouse and then an abandoned structure after its owners faced bankruptcy.

Today, a resurgence in the Latrobe Building’s allure has brought it back to life as the extravagant Ulysses, a hotel that opened its doors in September 2022. During a recent visit, I found myself in an artfully designed room that blended the flamboyant style of the 1970s with Renaissance elegance. Blue leopard print carpets and a claw-foot tub draped in silk curtains created a whimsical atmosphere. The hotel’s lobby was adorned with dramatic paintings reminiscent of Caravaggio, while ornate silver planters with swan necks held blooming orchids.

This transformation marks a stark contrast to the Baltimore depicted in the critically acclaimed series The Wire, which garnered attention for its portrayal of the city’s challenges with crime and corruption. The opening of the sleek waterfront hotel, Sagamore Pendry Baltimore, in 2017 indicated the beginning of a revitalization for the city, a trend that the pandemic temporarily halted. However, a new wave of hotels and restaurants now signals that economic momentum is making a comeback.

In Hampden, a charming neighborhood defined by its row houses, I had the opportunity to stay at the Guesthouse by Good Neighbor, which stands in stark contrast to the opulence of Ulysses. This project, which opened in September 2023, is the brainchild of married design enthusiasts Shawn Chopra and Anne Morgan. Though modest in size with only seven rooms, the guesthouse boasts significant creative ambition.

The interiors showcase a curated selection of local artisanal crafts, including ceramics by Whitney Simpkins, a Baltimore-based artist, and minimalist glassware from London designer Aaron Probyn. Additionally, the rooms feature works by local craftsmen, including shoji doors adorned with indigo-dyed fabric made by Blue Light Junction and flooring crafted from Maryland Douglas fir. As Chopra stated, “People can come to the house and see what woodworkers and artists are doing.”

That evening, I dined at Little Donna’s, a cozy row-house restaurant located in Upper Fell’s Point, run by chef Robbie Tutlewski. Named in honor of his grandmother, Little Donna’s was recognized by the New York Times as one of America’s best restaurants in 2023. Originating from a family with Yugoslavian roots and hailing from the Midwest, Tutlewski’s culinary creations blend diverse influences, showcasing Baltimore’s famed crab in unique dishes like crab pancakes with chili jam and lobster pierogi reflecting Eastern European traditions. On my visit, the special pizza featured persimmon, harmoniously paired with sharp cheese and rosemary—a testament to innovative home cooking.

Long-standing restaurants are also evolving creatively. Woodberry Kitchen, once hailed for its dedication to local ingredients, has undergone a transformation led by chef Spike Gjerde during the pandemic. The new Tavern at Woodberry Kitchen offers a more intimate experience while emphasizing the Chesapeake’s culinary heritage. Sitting in the airy dining space, I enjoyed a tradition-steeped dish of ham stuffed with fresh herbs, followed by an oyster pie featuring fresh Chesapeake oysters encased in perfectly flaky pastry. Gjerde’s commitment to local sourcing is driven by both a love for food history and the ethical imperative to minimize food miles and support trusted producers.

The revitalization of Baltimore’s culinary scene is further supported by renovations in its historic food markets, which have long been vital to city life. Lexington Market, established in the 18th century, has recently moved into a modern downtown facility, showcasing a vibrant array of international cuisines. The redevelopment breathes new life into beloved establishments like Faidley’s Seafood, which has been a staple since 1886.

The area surrounding the markets is experiencing a boom, with new eateries emerging at a rapid pace. A visit to the revamped Hollins Market revealed an increase in foot traffic that’s attracting restaurateurs. Among them are Amanda and Joseph Burton, who launched Rooted Rotisserie, a concept born out of their passion for communal dining. The Burtons, who started selling meal kits from their home during the pandemic, drew inspiration from the vibrant food culture they encountered at a Parisian market. Their restaurant features a carefully curated menu with standout dishes like rotisserie chicken and perfectly cooked double-cut pork chop.

On my final evening, I stayed at Roost, a stylish minimalist hotel that opened in 2023 within the ambitious Baltimore Peninsula development along the Patapsco River. This expansive project includes modern residential buildings and retail spaces, supported in part by Maryland’s own Kevin Plank, founder of Under Armour. During a visit to the waterfront tasting room at Sagamore Spirit Distillery, I savored a flight of their exceptional rye whiskey, reflecting on the historic piers that now stand as a symbol of Baltimore’s hopeful and dynamic future.

A version of this story first appeared in the May 2025 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “Charmed City.”

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