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Preserving a Holiday Tradition: The Legacy of Karinska in The Nutcracker

Tradition has a unique charm, offering a steadfastness that remains throughout life’s changes. During the holiday season, these cherished customs resonate even more deeply, providing a familiar touchstone to welcome the festivities. For many in New York City and beyond, this sense of tradition is epitomized by the New York City Ballet’s rendition of George Balanchine’s The Nutcracker.

Initially introduced to the ballet repertoire by Balanchine in the mid-20th century, The Nutcracker has retained much of its original charm, particularly in the stunning costumes created by Barbara Karinska, an Oscar-winning designer. Her designs, established in 1964, have become integral to the performance’s aesthetic.

Marc Happel, who oversees the costume department for the New York City Ballet, emphasizes Karinska’s enduring influence: “The legacy of Karinska is always just everywhere here in this shop and on that stage,” he notes. Balanchine himself attributed much of the success of his ballets to the effectiveness of Karinska’s costumes, highlighting their pivotal role in the storytelling of his works, including the renowned Jewels.

The Nutcracker, first performed in Russia in 1892, transforms E.T.A. Hoffmann’s tale The Nutcracker and the Mouse King into a beautifully choreographed narrative. The ballet begins at a festive Christmas gathering at the Stahlbaum household, where a young girl named Marie receives a beloved nutcracker from the enigmatic Herr Drosselmeier. As Marie drifts into slumber, she awakens to an epic clash between the nutcracker and a horde of mice. Following the defeat of the Rat King, the nutcracker morphs into a prince and takes Marie on an enchanting journey through the snow to the magical Kingdom of the Sugarplum Fairy, where various sweets and pastries come to life in delightful dances.

This full-length ballet, a holiday staple that sees 50 performances annually, boasts over 200 unique costumes. Each design not only captures the eye but is crafted with the dancers’ movement in mind. From the twinkling attire of children at the Christmas celebration to the whimsical ensemble worn by the principal portraying Hot Chocolate, every costume undergoes meticulous design and adjustment to enhance the dancers’ performances. Little touches—like the hidden cameo of Balanchine in the Hot Chocolate costume—speak to the detailed artistry at play, revealing the duo’s commitment to what will delight the audience while also ensuring the dancers’ comfort and mobility.

Happel likens this work to outfitting athletes, where the degree of movement must be taken into careful consideration. The costume department does not fabricate entirely new designs each season; instead, they adapt existing ones to better fit modern practices and dancer requirements. For instance, they’ve recently revamped the tutus to feature stretch netting that allows for greater freedom of movement, while also creating a special dyeing process to ensure that each dancer’s tights harmonize with their individual skin tones under the spotlight.

Ongoing preservation also plays a crucial role in maintaining the ballet’s legacy. The team often refurbishes costumes to ensure they remain true to the 1964 designs. This meticulous process might involve refreshing fabrics that have waned over the years or adding sparkling embellishments to maintain the original charm, such as the 65 crystal drops adorning the Dew Drop costume or the numerous jingle bells on the Candy Cane pieces. “Color palettes have shifted, and many of the fabrics used originally aren’t available today,” Happel explains, noting the complexities involved in balancing authenticity with contemporary requirements.

The commitment to preserving this artistic heritage is what keeps audiences returning to see The Nutcracker year after year. “The bottom line,” Happel emphasizes, “is that you want The Nutcracker to look the same as it did when a little girl watched it decades ago and now returns with her own daughter.” This enduring connection, reinforced by similar experiences across generations, underscores the timelessness of both the costumes and the memories they evoke.

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