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California’s Evolving Pizza Scene: A Culinary Renaissance

California’s love affair with pizza shows no signs of waning, with the Bay Area seeing the emergence of several exciting new pizzerias over the past year. Established staples such as Flour + Water, Che Fico, A16, and Piccino are continuously innovating, while newcomers like Outta Sight, Jules, and June’s in Oakland are gaining traction. These establishments join others like Pizzeria da Laura and Rose Pizzeria in Berkeley, which have quickly made their mark with exceptional offerings.

On the southern front, Los Angeles is equally vibrant. Pizzeria Sei continues to grow its unique omakase pizza experience, while Quarter Sheets keeps the party alive with their square pizzas. The city is also home to underground pizzerias like Lupa Cotta and Fiorelli Pizza, which delight fans with mobile wood-fired kitchens.

Across the Golden State, there’s no shortage of remarkable pizza styles—from the sourdough creations in Bettina in Santa Barbara to the light, airy crusts at Truly Pizza in Orange County.

What raises a compelling question is how to categorize this diverse culinary landscape: Is it even possible to label such a varied pizza scene as “California pizza”?

The Challenge of Defining California Pizza

Unlike the specific regional styles found in places like New York, Chicago, and Detroit, the essence of California pizza is more elusive. Its roots trace back to Spago, where Wolfgang Puck introduced unconventional toppings like smoked salmon on pizza in the 1980s. Following in those footsteps, chef Ed LaDou first created a notable menu for California Pizza Kitchen, which featured barbecue chicken pizza for a generation of hungry diners. Pioneer Nancy Silverton also played a significant role, shaping a distinctive crunchy style at Pizzeria Mozza.

Today, many associate California pizza with its hallmark sourdough crusts and seasonal vegetables, mirroring the region’s rich bread-making heritage. A visit to Cheeseboard Collective in Berkeley exemplifies this ethos with toppings that highlight local produce. On a personal note, while traveling, a child asked if broccoli was a common pizza topping in San Francisco after seeing it depicted in a Pixar film. I gave an enthusiastic affirmation, only to bemuse her further.

Flour + Water: A Case Study in Evolution

In San Francisco’s Mission Rock, Flour + Water Pizza Shop is set to open, symbolizing a shift in the city’s pizza narrative. Originally renowned for a singular sourdough pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven, the restaurant’s founders, Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow, now embrace what they term an “American artisanal” hybrid style.

Their approach melds traditional commercial yeast with a slow cold ferment, blending nostalgic Midwest toppings with California’s fresh flavors. Baking in a deck oven for six minutes achieves a delightful balance of texture reminiscent of New York and Naples while maintaining a manageable size.

Offering inventive toppings such as a cacio e pepe pizza adorned with anchovies or the unexpected combination of capicola and pineapple, they advocate for a blank canvas mentality when it comes to pizza, believing that the style is still in flux.

Quarter Sheets: Embracing the Gray Area

Similarly, Aaron Lindell of Quarter Sheets in LA, while rooted in Michigan, finds it challenging to neatly categorize his pizza style. After initially launching their venture from home during the pandemic, they now operate a bustling restaurant in Echo Park.

For Lindell, defining California pizza remains complex, yet he recognizes the ongoing boom and diverse interpretations. He incorporates elements from different regions, adding sourdough and whole wheat to his dough for enhanced flavor.

Outta Sight: A Celebration of Diversity

Meanwhile, Outta Sight has recently established a second location in Chinatown, embracing a style that nods to NYC. Chef Eric Ehler, however, prefers to classify it as “San Francisco-style pizza.”

In an increasingly open-minded culinary landscape, Ehler welcomes the dissolution of traditional boundaries, inviting influences from personal and community experiences into his creations. His approach leads to a delightful mix of flavors, marrying local ingredients with creative twists, illustrating how local culture profoundly influences California pizza today.

Through the evolving pizza scene in California, it is evident that the boundaries of traditional pizza-making continue to blur. With each new establishment, there’s a celebration of creativity and flavor, keeping the state at the forefront of pizza innovation.

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