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Caramelized Cream: A Culinary Discovery

Caramelized cream has emerged as a delightful addition to modern cuisine, a happy accident that reveals both creativity and resilience in the kitchen. Craig Wilmer, the chef at Farmhouse Inn in Sonoma County, stumbled upon this unique ingredient while attempting to make clotted cream. An old oven’s uneven heating caused the cream at the pan’s edge to scorch, yet this unexpected result sparked curiosity.

Understanding that heavy cream contains a significant amount of milk solids, Wilmer and his team experimented with the toasted cream, resulting in a flavor profile they described as “insanely intense.” This caramelized cream, affectionately referred to as “super brown butter” at the inn, quickly became a key component in a variety of their dishes, including decadent pancakes.

The Perfect Pairing: Pancakes and Caramelized Cream

Pancakes serve as an ideal medium for caramelized cream, providing a neutral backdrop to enhance its rich flavors. According to Wilmer, the ingredients of pancakes—flour and milk—allow the concentrated essence of the caramelized cream to flourish. When combined with sugar and a hint of cinnamon, the result is a layered complexity, offering a taste experience reminiscent of brown butter but elevated to new heights.

Versatility of Caramelized Cream

The use of caramelized cream extends far beyond pancakes. Wilmer notes its versatility, suggesting that it can replace brown butter in numerous recipes. This cream, with a texture similar to that of a paste when at room temperature, can be deliciously incorporated into various dishes. For instance, it can be melted and drizzled over roasted nuts or popcorn for a sweet-savory snack or used as a rich basting agent for seared fish, reminiscent of classic trout almondine.

Tips for Perfecting Caramelized Cream

For those wishing to recreate this bold flavor at home, Wilmer recommends preparing caramelized cream on the stovetop instead of the oven. This method offers greater control over the cooking process and reduces the likelihood of burning. He advises monitoring the cream closely, turning off the heat when it reaches a golden-brown hue and allowing residual heat to achieve the desired intensity.

Wilmer describes the process: “You’ll experience a captivating aroma reminiscent of brown butter and hazelnuts. I aim for a color resembling a dark roux or a muddy earth tone—not quite black, but a deep, rich brown.” Once prepared, caramelized cream can be stored in the refrigerator, and its flavors deepen over time.

Demerara Sugar and its Alternatives

Demerara sugar, characterized by its toffee-like sweetness, is often recommended for recipes featuring caramelized cream. Available at specialty grocery stores or online, it can be substituted with turbinado sugar, which imparts a similar molasses-like flavor to pancakes and other baked goods.

Understanding Butter Types

When it comes to ingredients, the choice of butter can significantly influence the final dish. European-style butter, for instance, has a higher butterfat content, typically around 82%, compared to the 80% of American butter. This difference yields a richer taste and creamier texture, enhancing any recipe that incorporates it.

Insights from the Kitchen

The Food & Wine Test Kitchen emphasizes the importance of vigilance when cooking heavy cream for caramelization. Stirring is essential to prevent scorching, and as the milk solids separate, they brown rapidly. Have an ice bath ready to halt the process promptly and achieve the perfect balance of flavor.

Make-Ahead Options

For those wanting to streamline their cooking process, pancake batter can be made a day in advance and stored in the refrigerator, covered. Before cooking, let it rest at room temperature for about 45 minutes to ensure optimal fluffiness most desired.

Moreover, any leftover caramelized cream can be preserved for up to two weeks in an airtight container in the fridge. As Wilmer suggests, it can be creatively employed in various dishes, further highlighting its potential as a versatile culinary staple.

Source
www.foodandwine.com