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Emeril Lagasse’s Culinary Journey: A Portuguese Homage in New Orleans

Emeril Lagasse has become a household name in the New Orleans food scene, known for his dynamic approach to Creole and Cajun cuisine. His storied career began at Commander’s Palace, eventually leading to the opening of his flagship restaurant, Emeril’s, in 1990. Lagasse’s influence has reached kitchens across America through his bestselling cookbooks and popular television shows, such as Emeril Live and Essence of Emeril.

His latest venture, 34 Restaurant & Bar, embraces a more personal narrative, reflecting his Portuguese heritage and childhood experiences in Fall River, Massachusetts—a city with the highest density of Portuguese Americans in the U.S.

At 34 Restaurant & Bar, Lagasse collaborates with his son, E.J., who co-owns the establishment and shares a passion for culinary arts. The restaurant serves as a heartfelt tribute not only to Lagasse’s mother, Hilda, who hailed from the Azores, but also to the family traditions and flavors that marked his upbringing. “Caldo verde (a traditional soup) was something we enjoyed weekly, and fish dishes were a staple, including mackerel in summer and the small sardines we would collect from the beach,” Lagasse shared with Travel + Leisure.

The nostalgia doesn’t stop there; Lagasse remembers the malassadas, a beloved fried dough pastry from his childhood. He reminisced, “We would buy them by the dozen, covered in granulated sugar—a tradition that seems to be fading.” This deep connection to his past laid the groundwork for his culinary identity.

Conversations with Chef Emeril Lagasse

What are your favorite regions of Portugal?
While Lisbon captures my heart, I have a deep fondness for the Douro Valley as well.

What signifies a good restaurant to you?
The quality of the bread, the cleanliness of the bathrooms, and the care put into the soup usually indicate a great dining experience.

Where do you go for a night off?
Yakuza House.

How do you spend your time while traveling?
I enjoy reading or indulging in games like Golf Solitaire.

What’s a travel essential for you?
A Saint Christopher charm, as he is the patron saint of travelers.

Where do you prefer to unwind?
The beach is my ideal place for relaxation.

Is there something you refuse to eat while flying?
I typically stick to chicken or pasta; I avoid ordering fish or beef.

At 34 Restaurant & Bar, Lagasse alongside E.J. aims to honor their roots while creating new culinary experiences. E.J. recently took the reins at Emeril’s, giving it a fresh perspective. Lagasse expressed his joy in working with his son, stating, “Creating a tribute to my mother while celebrating our shared culture has been a wonderful experience.” For E.J., this endeavor is more than a job; it’s a fulfilling connection to his family’s legacy.

On collaborating with his father, E.J. remarked, “His nuggets of wisdom are invaluable, but I cherish that he allowed me to find my own path before joining forces.” Lagasse’s ideal meal at their restaurant includes duck rice, paella, and espetada (skewers), while E.J. favors starting with pão com tomate and concluding with pineapple foster, paired with espresso.

For Lagasse, New Orleans remains the quintessential food city. “Its culinary landscape is rich with history,” he noted. “Dishes reflect a fusion of Spanish, French, African, and Italian influences, yet the city’s food culture continues to transform, incorporating flavors from around the globe, from Vietnamese cuisine to Senegalese dishes.” He advocates for first-time visitors to try a po boy at Domilise’s, while also recommending Hansen’s Sno-Bliz for their local sno-balls and suggesting Café du Monde in City Park for a more tranquil beignet experience.

As for his go-to dining spots, Lagasse enjoys Paladar 511 and long-standing establishments like Brigtsen’s Restaurant. He also has a passion for Vietnamese cuisine, highlighting Phở Tầu Bay Restaurant as one of his top picks, especially for their chargrilled pork spring rolls and chicken pho.

Beyond New Orleans, Lagasse finds inspiration in Lisbon, likening it to his home city. He shares, “No matter the dining level, good food is ubiquitous there.” Some of his favorites include Tabisco Lisboa, Taberna da Rua das Flores, and Alma.

“Experiencing a culture through its food is one of the most profound ways to connect with it,” Lagasse concluded. “In Louisiana, for instance, you might find boudin at a gas station, which tells you something about local preferences. Food clues exist everywhere, not just in upscale dining.”

Source
www.travelandleisure.com