Chinese Tourists Return to Kinmen, a Taiwanese Island Near Mainland China

Historically, Kinmen was a critical front in the Taiwan-China conflict during the mid-20th century, with soldiers training on its shores and towns fortified with anti-Communist messaging.

As military activities diminished, the island pivoted to tourism, embracing its turbulent history. Many locals, including Zhang, sought to attract visitors by opening cafés in military structures, offering “war rations,” and crafting novelty items like “bomb knives” from repurposed artillery shells.

Kinmen is situated approximately 1.8 miles from China but over 110 miles from Taiwan’s main island. This geographic oddity has led to a strong dependency on connections to the mainland.

According to tour guide Chen Hua Sheng, “Kinmen’s business landscape largely relies on links with mainland China.” Although half-hour boat services have resumed, they have primarily catered to Taiwanese passengers due to the ongoing travel restrictions for Chinese visitors.

With hopes for reestablished tourism after Covid-19, the fragility of the situation became evident when a tragic incident on February 14 led to the deaths of two Chinese nationals in a maritime collision involving Taiwan’s Coast Guard, further heightening tensions.

Despite small numbers of Chinese tourists returning to other Taiwanese islands, Kinmen has seen a stark drop in arrivals. Reports indicated an alarming decrease in Chinese nationals visiting Kinmen, plummeting from over 400,000 in 2019 to fewer than 18,000 in 2023, according to Taiwan’s Mainland Affairs Council.

Wu Zeng Yun, CEO of the Kinmen-Matsu Joint Services Center, views this drop in tourism as a clear sign of Beijing’s discontent towards Kinmen.

Local business owners have grappled with the economic ramifications of diminished Chinese tourist presence, with this demographic once contributing nearly $200 million to the local economy.

Beddy Chang, who operates a noodle shop, noted that up to 80% of her clients were from China. With this customer base now absent, she has turned her focus to exporting goods overseas.

Others, like Wu, have shifted operations toward Taiwan’s larger market, leaving behind their traditional crafts, such as “bomb knives.” “We are adapting by hosting events in department stores across Taiwan,” he said.

However, not all have found alternative paths as easily. Some former business owners, like Lu Wen Shiung, have turned to fishing and guiding boat tours to make ends meet, although this new venture has also faced its challenges.

Lu expressed his concerns while navigating the narrow strait separating Kinmen from China, recounting experiences with increased Chinese Coast Guard activity, which has escalated significantly since February.

“I worry that if we are apprehended in our waters, it could lead to unexpected consequences,” Lu shared, reflecting on the flared tensions in the area.

In a potentially positive turn, Taiwanese and Chinese authorities reached an agreement concerning the February incident, allowing the remains of the deceased fishermen to return home.

In late August, local Kinmen legislator Chen Yu Jen traveled to Beijing to engage in discussions around revitalizing tourism on the island. Officials assured her that Chinese tourists would soon resume their visits.

The first group of visitors from the mainland was reported to have arrived in Kinmen at the end of September, marking a cautious step towards recovery for the local tourism sector.

While the 22 tourists who visited for a brief two-day stay do not signify a full return of Chinese tourism, many locals are hopeful yet wary. Chen remains optimistic, stating, “We wish for mainland Chinese travelers to explore Taiwan and Kinmen again, as it would significantly aid economic growth on both sides.”