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Mayra Sibrian embarked on her culinary journey with a distinct vision when she founded Pan de la Selva in Seattle. Her aim was to showcase a variety of pan dulce that represented both her Mexican and Salvadoran heritage. Growing up in California surrounded by a wealth of traditional conchas and pan dulce, she sought a way to marry these childhood flavors with the local tastes of the Pacific Northwest. This fusion results in innovative offerings such as PB&J conchas and strawberry y queso picos, along with a creative take on the Día de los Muertos classic: pan de muerto, prepared using totomoxtle (corn husk) ashes and topped with marigold. “Our pan symbolizes how communities of color maintain their identities while adapting to new environments,” she observes.
Though many American bakeries trace their influences back to Europe, an emerging trend has seen bakers pay homage to Mexican traditions by focusing on conchas and a broad range of pan dulce. These soft, sweet rolls, with their characteristic crunchy toppings, are available in both classic flavors like vanilla and chocolate and more avant-garde creations, signaling a blend of age-old customs with contemporary culinary innovation. Across the nation, various bakeries and pop-up shops, predominantly run by individuals from the Mexican and Central American diasporas, are revitalizing Mexican baking customs and experimenting with unique flavor combinations. This marks a notable chapter in the evolution of Mexican American pastries.
The lineage of Mexican baked goods often reflects the influences of European colonization, with the French brioche being heralded as the precursor to conchas. However, Sibrian emphasizes, “Mexican baking deserves to be recognized as its own unique art form. While there can be innovative overlaps with traditional European pastries, it is crucial for us as Mexican bakers to maintain the integrity of our traditional breads.”
Historically, Mexican pastries in the U.S. have not achieved the same quality as those produced in Mexico. Caroline Anders, who co-owns Atla’s Conchas in New York, remarks that Mexican conchas tend to be of higher quality, frequently handcrafted and baked in wood-fired ovens. The production process requires careful management of the dough’s rising, ensuring that the topping achieves the desired crispness, and guaranteeing an even bake that results in a rich, brioche-like texture.
A revolution in the concha scene is underway, fueled by a “surge of first-generation Latinx bakers who are creatively expressing their cultural backgrounds through baking,” points out Sibrian. In the U.S., conchas have traditionally been viewed as economical choices, often priced at a dollar or less in local panaderías or grocery stores, which can sometimes lead to bland and mass-produced versions that lack authenticity.
At Atla’s, the focus lies on high-quality ingredients inspired by Mexican traditions. Anders explains, “We prioritize using vanilla and ground anise, and we make our conchas with butter instead of oil or shortening. While we do not replicate every detail from Mexico, we strive to come close.” They also emphasize using full-inclusion flour sourced from local mills, which aligns more closely with older baking practices in both Mexico and the U.S., as opposed to the predominant use of white flour seen in many American bakeries.
The current wave of interest in conchas is partly attributed to the rise of first-generation Latinx bakers showcasing their heritage through their culinary talents. The accessibility of pop-ups and social media platforms creates opportunities for these bakers to present their creations without the constraints of conventional professional kitchens.
This sentiment resonated with Mariela Camacho, who began her journey of making conchas in Seattle in 2017 after working in a variety of kitchens specializing in French and New American cuisines. Frustrated by a lack of creative freedom, she founded Comadre Panadería, which now operates in Austin, Texas. Camacho wanted to create the foods she missed and believed might bring joy to others, drawing inspiration from local ingredients, including mesquite wood and prickly pears.
Contemporary panaderías are increasingly incorporating inspiration from various culinary traditions. Ximena Suarez, based in San Francisco at Florecita Panadería, began her baking journey after leaving her marketing role in 2022 and sought to introduce unique flavor profiles to her conchas, such as chocolate chunk and strawberry hibiscus. She steered clear of artificial colors, opting instead to incorporate ingredients like matcha for natural coloring and flavor.
Despite Latinx individuals comprising 19% of the U.S. population, the dominance of European-style pastries has often meant that many Latinx bakers were trained primarily in those traditional techniques. Arturo Enciso, founder of Gusto Bread in Long Beach, California, shares, “I learned to bake through European recipes, primarily using sourdough. Now, I blend these techniques with the breads and sweets from my upbringing, creating a blend of traditional pan dulce and hearty loaves.” He considers his bakery a product of his Californian identity rather than strictly Mexican or European.
While the modern interpretation of sweet bread flavors has undoubtedly attracted a larger audience to conchas, other factors are contributing to their renewed popularity. Enciso attributes a portion of the trend to the influence of trendy panaderías in vibrant cities such as Mexico City, like Panadería Rosetta, which have both inspired local bakers and won the hearts of American travelers. Additionally, Suarez notes that the visual resemblance of conchas to Chinese pineapple buns and Japanese melonpan has provided a new context for appreciating these unique pastries.
In a surprising twist, conchas are beginning to capture the attention of a broader audience. La Hacienda Bakery in Houston gained viral fame for their pumpkin-shaped concha rellena—stuffed with a pumpkin spice filling—drawing customers from miles away. Owner Leslye Rangel expressed disbelief at the level of demand, “I never imagined people would drive up to eight hours to buy our conchas. It’s been an experience that’s uniting communities.”
Camacho is optimistic that the rising popularity of inventive, high-quality conchas will bring recognition to the craftsmanship involved. “I hope people, especially within our own community, will understand that sometimes a concha might cost $5 because of the quality and effort involved in making it,” she adds. She aspires for greater appreciation of the skill and dedication bakers invest in their craft.
The emergence of these bakeries signifies a commitment to community and collaboration. Many bakers uplift one another, as reflected in their shared sentiments. Camacho mentions that Gusto serves some of her most beloved conchas, while Anders expresses how their inspiration to open Atla’s stemmed from observing other pan dulce pop-ups online. Sibrian remarks, “The support we provide each other in pushing creative boundaries shines through in our pastries.” This collective effort fosters a growing interest in conchas, facilitating opportunities for customers, including those outside the Mexican community, to appreciate pan dulce. As interest continues to climb, first-generation bakers are discovering that there is indeed a place for their unique contributions. “I’m eager to be part of this evolution and to inspire fresh ideas in our culinary landscape,” concludes Enciso. “Let’s advance our culture together.”
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