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Welcome to Yucking Your Yum, a new series where Eater staff delves into the popular foods and trends that have garnered widespread acclaim, sharing insights on why they miss the mark.
Every September, anticipation swells in Dallas as the State Fair of Texas kicks off, an event that signals the arrival of fall and the football season. With roots dating back to 1886, the fair has evolved from its agricultural beginnings into a spectacle of deep-fried delicacies and carnival attractions, where indulgent treats like fried Oreos and corny dogs reign supreme. However, many, including myself, prefer to steer clear of this annual gathering.
As a long-time Texan, this feeling is a long-held secret. During my tenure as editor for Eater Dallas, I feigned enthusiasm while covering the increasingly bizarre food offerings each year. From funnel-cake-flavored beer to the audacious Deep Fried Froot Loops, I approached these culinary experiments with an open mind, only to be consistently underwhelmed. The reality is that not everything benefits from a trip to the deep fryer.
My objections to these artery-clogging creations are not rooted in health concerns; it’s more about recognizing that state fair cuisine often lacks culinary merit. These items tend to be overwhelmingly rich in flavor, either cloyingly sweet or irritatingly salty, and are impractically served in flimsy containers that struggle to contain their messiness. My biggest issue, however, lies in the excessive greasiness of many dishes. Take the deep-fried Oreo, for example; the breading absorbs so much oil that it becomes unpalatable.
One vivid memory is biting into a cotton candy taco, which won the 2018 Big Tex Choice Awards. I immediately discarded it in disgust. Cotton candy stuffed in a waffle cone might sound whimsical, but it was a textural disaster, and at approximately $12, it felt like a regrettable expense. Coupled with overpriced food and unsatisfying flavors, my frustration only deepened.
There are indeed valid criticisms of the State Fair of Texas, encompassing its historical ties to racism and the undue pressure it places on local businesses during its run. Yet, my grievances are predominantly personal. The long wait times for items priced at ridiculous heights, such as $28 turkey legs, never fail to irritate me, and the throngs of attendees can be overwhelming. At minimum, one might expect the food to provide solace amidst the chaos, but navigating through families and sugar-fueled children, only to deal with messy condiments, adds to the overall distress.
While I respect those who revel in the fair’s two-week festivities, I believe fairgoers deserve better culinary options for their money. There are notable items worth enjoying at the State Fair—Fletcher’s Corny Dogs and those famed turkey legs among them—but they often get lost amid the gimmicky offerings that disappoint. Perhaps a shift back to the fair’s agricultural roots could lead to a celebration of local produce and meats, showcasing quality over novelty while still allowing for some deep-fried indulgence.
Moreover, I am concerned for the workers at the fair, many of whom come in on a temporary basis with minimal pay and no benefits. These individuals are often left to manage unruly fairgoers under difficult circumstances while the vendors and the fair itself profit significantly. This atmosphere raises ethical concerns, especially when combined with overpriced, subpar food.
While I recognize that state fairs exist beyond Texas, my sentiments likely extend to those as well. The entire idea of fair food embodies a troubling acceptance of paying steep prices for lesser-quality fried fare, and for me, that’s simply not worthwhile.
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