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Mayonnaise is perhaps one of the most polarizing condiments in the culinary world, sparking intense reactions from both supporters and detractors. The condiment has quite the following, evidenced by the existence of groups such as the Worldwide I Hate Mayonnaise Club, established in 1988, and the Wesleyan Anti-Mayonnaise League, showcasing the depth of this cultural divide. While some denounce it as a viscous paste, others celebrate its versatility, making it a staple for dishes like potato salad and burgers.
As a dedicated fan of mayonnaise, I find myself wearied by the ongoing discourse surrounding its desirability. Personally, I perceive it as both unappealing in concept yet delightful in application. The sound of mayonnaise being extracted from its jar may turn some away, but for many, it conjures up the deliciousness of a classic BLT or savory chicken salad.
For those who find traditional mayonnaise intolerable in its familiar forms—whether it be in aioli, sandwiches, or salad dressings—the remedy lies not in argument, but rather in experiencing mayonnaise through culinary application. While it may seem unconventional, discovering its role in cooking will impress even the staunchest skeptics.
When incorporated into cooking, the familiar texture and odor of mayonnaise dissipate, which often concern many mayonnaise critics. Its transformation begins when it meets a medium-hot skillet. Unlike butter, which has a lower smoke point of 350 degrees Fahrenheit, mayonnaise withstands higher temperatures—smoking only around 450 degrees—making it an excellent option for frying. Many culinary enthusiasts acknowledge its efficacy for achieving a perfectly browned grilled cheese, a technique that has delighted diners for generations.
The oil present in mayonnaise acts effectively as a frying agent, while the egg yolks create a delicate coating for whatever is being cooked. This combination results in a beautifully crunchy crust without necessitating excess oil, which is why mayo has gained a loyal following for making grilled cheese sandwiches. Yet, the applications of mayonnaise extend far beyond this traditional use.
A variety of mayonnaise types can be utilized, ranging from traditional and spicy to avocado oil or plant-based options like Veganaise. However, it’s advisable to avoid light mayonnaise, as it can break down when heated due to additives such as food starches. While Kewpie mayonnaise is a popular choice, enthusiasts often prefer to reserve high-quality mayonnaises for cold applications.
Starting with something simple, try frying eggs in mayonnaise. Heavy cream is gaining popularity for frying due to its creamy edges, so why not elevate your eggs with mayo? It provides the same crisp edges while maintaining a smooth, runny yolk.
In contrast to many other condiments, mayonnaise serves a dual purpose: it helps maintain moisture in dishes while imparting a golden, appealing skin to meats such as chicken. When used as a marinade for lean cuts like rib eye or pork loin, mayonnaise locks in juices, and it enhances the texture of fish, leading to tender, perfectly browned results. Furthermore, it contributes to less-greasy options for pan-fried kebabs, burger patties, meatballs, and sausages.
Another innovative use is in Eric Kim’s mayo-and-corn-fried rice. This technique allows mayo to coat the rice, preventing steaming while promoting delicious browning. Similarly, it can enhance frozen snacks like dumplings and kimbap when given a quick microwave thaw before a mayo-infused fry.
Oven use for mayonnaise is equally transformative. Slather it on veggies and proteins prior to roasting, or incorporate it into savory recipes such as frittatas, quiches, Korean corn cheese, and even a classic green bean casserole to enhance creaminess.
Incorporate mayonnaise into scrambled eggs for an extra luxurious finish, or mix it into mashed potatoes for added richness. A spoonful can even revive a broken hollandaise or béarnaise sauce, introduce tanginess to mac and cheese, and enrich the flavors of sauces like alfredo, béchamel, and gravy.
Uncommonly, mayonnaise can even feature in baking, taking the place of eggs in a moist, fudgy chocolate cake from the Depression era made with basic ingredients. For an addition of moisture, consider substituting mayo for sour cream in banana bread or coffee crumb cake recipes.
When faced with someone who professes their distaste for mayo and dismisses its culinary potential, don’t engage in debate. Instead, let the vast array of recipes make the case for mayonnaise. Whether used for frying, baking, or enhancing sauces, this ubiquitous condiment transcends its traditional role, solidifying its status as a versatile ally in the kitchen.
Mehr Singh is a food and culture reporter based in New York. Her work appears in Bon Appétit, Food52, and other publications.
Source
www.eater.com