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The Rich Tradition of Mangoes and Pickles in Indian Cuisine

In my childhood in a small town in India, the arrival of summer was marked by the fragrant bloom of mango trees. We had two trees in our backyard, providing a bounty of mangoes that could last us through the season. My mother dedicated time to sorting the ripe fruit not just for our family but also for friends and neighbors. She would chop mangoes into neat little cubes for snacking or puree them for milkshakes. Among her many creations, she made kancha aamer chutney, a delightful Bengali sweet and sour condiment seasoned with spices, and a tangy tok dal using orange lentils. However, the most prized unripe mangoes were saved for making hot and sweet pickles.

Indian pickles differ significantly from the fermented varieties commonly known worldwide. The essential components of these pickles include oil, spices like mustard, fennel, and fenugreek, along with salt—forming what could be termed the holy trinity of pickle creation. These mixtures, once bottled, are set out in the sun for several weeks to mature, allowing their flavors to develop. Regional variations abound, influenced by local culinary traditions and ingredient availability. For example, mustard oil is predominantly used in the northern and eastern parts of India, while southern regions often favor sesame oil.

According to a report from Google India, “mango pickle” emerged as the most searched recipe last year, highlighting the diversity of India’s 4,000-year-old pickling culture. In Usha Prabakaran’s celebrated cookbook, Usha’s Pickle Digest, over 100 mango pickle recipes are shared, illustrating the vast array of techniques across cultures, including combinations with cabbage and many others for various fruits and vegetables.

My family’s all-time favorite recipe comes from my maternal grandmother. My mother has been preparing it for nearly five decades, referring to it as tok-jhal aamer achaar. This pickle strikes a balance between mild heat and a hint of sourness. The process is relatively straightforward: tart green mangoes are diced and mixed with salt and turmeric before being left out in the sun for a couple of days to draw out moisture. My mother emphasizes the importance of this step, as it prepares the mangoes for preservation. When ready, she combines them with a spice blend made of fenugreek, fennel, mustard, and dried red chilies. She generously uses mustard oil, often saying, “let the mangoes drown” to ensure they are well coated. The addition of asafoetida, particularly when tempered with spices in hot oil, adds a unique depth to the flavor. After preparing, she stores the pickle in a sunlit spot for a few weeks and keeps it in the pantry, suggesting occasional sun exposure to maintain its quality through the year.

India boasts over a thousand mango varieties, each region featuring unique cultivars distinguished by their shapes, sizes, aromas, textures, and flavors. K.T. Achaya’s A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food traces the origin of mangoes to the hilly regions of northeast India, along with Myanmar and parts of Southeast Asia. The Alphonso (or Hapus), native to coastal Maharashtra, is often dubbed the “king of mangoes” due to its luscious, golden, fibrous flesh. Other popular varieties include Kesar from Gujarat, Totapuri and Banganapalle from the south, as well as varieties like Chausa, Langda, and Dasheri from Uttar Pradesh.

Chutneys and relishes provide another avenue to utilize green mangoes. They are quick to prepare and serve as versatile condiments. From a refreshing South Indian raw mango and coconut chutney ideal for dipping to a sweet Gujarati chundo that pairs well with cheese and crackers, the options are extensive.

The adaptability of mango chutneys encourages chefs to incorporate them into various dishes. Chef-partner of Unapologetic Foods, Chintan Pandya, enjoys a sweet and sour variant known as khatta meetha, which complements fried snacks and grilled items exquisitely. Using spices like cinnamon and cloves, along with white vinegar for preservation, his recipe emphasizes a balance of sweet, spicy, and tangy flavors. He prepares the mangoes by simmering them until tender in a mixture with whole spices, vinegar, and water, resulting in a syrupy chutney that he enjoys with everything from chips to grilled meats.

The ethos of using every part of the mango is also prevalent among culinary creators. Chef Sohini Banerjee, based in London, highlights how she transforms mango scraps into a tart kashundi, a traditional Bengali mustard relish that pairs perfectly with fried fish and cutlets. Advocating for zero-waste cooking, she captures the distinctive aroma of green mango peels, which enhance the relish. Using a blend of mustards, she combines the peels with green chilies and lime juice, emphasizing the use of warm mustard oil to amplify the flavors. This relish makes an excellent accomplice to grilled dishes or as a flavorful dip.

Semi-ripe mangoes also lend themselves well to refreshing drinks. Aam panna (in Hindi), aam pora shorbot (in Bengali), or panha (in Marathi) is a beloved summer beverage recognized for its cooling effects. Culinary consultant and author Saee Koranne-Khandekar often prepares this drink for her children as a refreshing treat after school.

To prepare, green mangoes are boiled or roasted until the skin is charred, after which the pulp is mashed with sweeteners and spices like cumin and rock salt. Banerjee notes that using caramelized sugars enhances the flavor profile, with saffron and cardamom further uplifting the drink. It can even be mixed into a cocktail, such as a margarita, for a unique twist.

While ripe mangoes are delightful on their own or in desserts, they can also play a role in savory dishes, like curries. “Wild mangoes, cooked in spicy coconut or yogurt bases, create a flavorful journey when served over rice,” states Koranne-Khandekar. Families across Goa, Mangalore, and Kerala have adapted recipes, depending on their available ingredients, sometimes introducing jaggery to balance the taste or tamarind to offset sweetness. Koranne-Khandekar’s method involves tempering spices and simmering peeled mango chunks in a creamy coconut sauce.

During summer, I often make a tangy Kerala-style fish curry, usually with prawns, fulfilling my desire for spice. Inspired by Chef Pandya, I plan to soak the mangoes before cooking for an added crunch next time.

Rituparna Roy is an independent journalist based in Mumbai, focusing on food at the crossroads of travel and culture. Her writings have appeared across various notable platforms.
Dilek Baykara is a Turkish American illustrator and print designer residing in Brooklyn, New York.

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