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Exploring the Versatile Quince: A Culinary Journey

If you have ever tasted membrillo, the thick Spanish jam often served alongside Manchego cheese, Marcona almonds, and a glass of Tempranillo, you are familiar with the sweet and subtly floral essence of quince. Surprisingly, its appearance may not be as well-known. The pink-toned, neatly sliced quince paste is a stark contrast to the lumpy, golden fruit that dangles from trees during the autumn harvest.

At first glance, quince might resemble an heirloom apple or pear, but upon closer inspection, the firmness of this fruit reveals a crucial distinction: it cannot be consumed raw. However, with modest heat and some patience, quince can shine in a wide range of both sweet and savory dishes.

In the United States, fresh quince is a rarity, typically found only at select specialty markets and farmers’ markets from October through winter. In Europe, however, its presence is more prominent, manifested in homemade quince pastes such as cotognata in Italy, pâte de coing in France, marmelada in Portugal, and kydoni in Greece. This fruit has historic roots in the Mediterranean, with origins likely tracing back to Iran and Turkey before making its way through the Middle East. Chef Fadi Kattan, a Franco-Palestinian culinary expert, mentions that quince is extensively used in Palestine.

When Kattan and I first connected, he had just completed three jars of jam using quince from his backyard tree in Bethlehem, and he planned to acquire more to ensure he had enough to last until the next harvest season.

“From a young age, my maternal grandmother, Julia, would prepare exquisite safarjal (quince) jam, and I would eagerly taste it as she would check for consistency,” Kattan reminisces. His recipe, which draws inspiration from his grandmother’s technique, is featured in his recently published cookbook, Bethlehem: A Celebration of Palestinian Food.

Today, he continues this cherished tradition with his mother. “Making jams together is always enjoyable, as we often have lively debates over how much sugar to use, whether to add certain herbs, or how thick the jam should be. We frequently end up with small dishes of jam moving in and out of the freezer,” he shares.

Kattan relishes enjoying the jam “spread on warm bread, preferably kmaj, or maybe on taboun bread. It also pairs beautifully with a fukhara of three meats.” Fukhara is a traditional Palestinian dish that is slow-cooked with lamb, carrots, onions, potatoes, and zucchini. At his cafe, Fawda, Kattan used to serve both vegetable and meat fukhara, the latter containing lamb, beef, and pork, where the quince jam complements the flavors of the slow-roasted meats.

The chef also suggests making lamb stew with quince and notes that the fruit can be a delightful side dish when roasted with za’atar leaves.

In contrast to Kattan’s lifelong connection with quince, baker Benjamina Ebuehi discovered it later in life while living in London. “I first encountered it as part of a dessert, specifically a frangipane tart,” she recalls. “I was captivated by its fragrance and wanted to learn more about this intriguing fruit.”

This curiosity ignited a lengthy recipe development journey, ultimately resulting in her poached quince and custard crumble cake, included in her cookbook, I’ll Bring Dessert: Simple, Sweet Recipes for Every Occasion.

Ebuehi aimed to create a dish inspired by the classic British apple crumble, choosing to feature quince for its distinctive qualities. “Quince has an enchanting sweet floral aroma; its flavor profile, when cooked, is reminiscent of rose with citrus nuances and a touch of tartness,” she explains.

“Though quince may not be universally popular, it felt special enough to feature, and I wanted to introduce it as an opportunity for exploration,” she adds.

The recipe intentionally yields more poached quince than needed for the cake, as Ebuehi enjoys repurposing the leftovers. “I typically use the extra poached quince for breakfast, paired with yogurt and granola. Alternatively, for a quick dessert, I serve it with some of the poaching liquid, shortbread, and a dollop of clotted cream.”

To poach quince, it is essential to wash, peel, and quarter the fruit, then simmer it in boiling water with sugar, as well as lemon zest and juice. Ebuehi also recommends incorporating spices like cardamom and star anise. After about an hour of cooking, the poaching liquid can be saved to enhance desserts or to substitute for simple syrup in drinks.

This cooking method transforms quince from its raw, astringent state—characterized by high tannin levels—into a sweet and tender fruit. An unexpected transformation occurs as well: the raw fruit’s interior, initially white, turns pink during cooking due to natural pigments known as anthocyanins.

For this very reason, Kattan refers to quince as a “magic fruit.”

“The change in color and the enchanting aromas that fill the kitchen while it cooks—it’s truly mesmerizing!” Kattan exclaims, emphasizing that the joy of cooking quince is as fulfilling as the pleasure of consuming it.

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