Nestled just south of India, Sri Lanka is a lush island rich in biodiversity, featuring dense jungles and expansive coastlines. The landscape is dotted with rice paddies, curry leaf trees, and pandan groves, while its 800-mile stretch of shoreline is alive with crabs, prawns, and plentiful coconuts.

Throughout history, Sri Lankans have creatively harnessed their natural resources to prepare an impressive array of dishes. Local traditions include grandmothers in colorful cheeththa dresses frying kokis (coconut rice snacks shaped like flowers), cafes serving aromatic, milky tea, and outdoor family gatherings where baby jackfruit is slowly cooked in coconut milk. Tappers also scale the kithul (fishtail palm) trees to extract sap for treacle and jaggery. Recently, the island has seen a revival in tourism, attracting millions of visitors in 2024, marking its resurgence on the global travel map following a period of economic difficulties.

While many travelers stick to well-trodden tourist spots where the food can be uninspiring, those willing to explore can discover remarkable culinary experiences. Colombo, often seen merely as a transit point, boasts a vibrant food scene with exquisite restaurants, traditional bakeries, and bustling markets. Along the southern coast, seafood abounds in local eateries, and northern chefs skillfully incorporate Tamil Nadu’s culinary influences from India. Adventurous diners can expect rewarding gastronomic discoveries throughout their travels.

Exploring Sri Lankan Cuisine

Describing Sri Lankan cuisine as monolithic would overlook its rich tapestry of influences and varieties. From the second century BCE through the 15th century, the island served as a critical waypoint along the Maritime Silk Route, frequented by Arab, Persian, and Indian traders. Portuguese colonists arrived in the 16th century, followed by the Dutch in the 17th, and the British in the late 18th century, who significantly impacted local culinary practices during their 150 years of dominion.

The culinary heritage of Sri Lanka reflects these historical influences, with regular usage of ingredients like masoor dal (a type of red lentil) brought from India. The legacy of Portuguese baking persists, including the tradition of using pumpkin preserves in festive cakes. Indian and West Asian snacks such as samosas and beverages like falooda are prevalent, while dodol, a dense, sweet treat, is often featured in festive meals, echoing practices seen in other former colonies such as India and Malaysia.

In the 19th century, British colonial authorities introduced tea cultivation in the highlands, establishing Sri Lanka as the world’s third-largest tea exporter. For many locals, the day commences with a deeply rich cup of tea, enriched with fresh or powdered milk. The migration of South Indian laborers during the British era has led to a vibrant Malaiyaha Tamil community in tea-growing regions like Nuwara Eliya, where vegetarian restaurants reflect strong South Indian culinary traditions. In contrast, the arid northern areas favor restaurants known for their crab, prawns, and cuttlefish dishes, seasoned with roasted spices.

Essential Terms for Food Enthusiasts

Bath: This term translates to cooked rice, but usually refers to an elaborate combination of rice with vegetables, protein options (like egg, fish, or chicken), dal, popadam, and pol sambola (coconut relish with chilies). Sometimes, these ingredients are combined into a flavorful coconut curry or packaged for on-the-go lunches.

Shorties: This term encompasses an array of crispy, deep-fried snacks, including fish-stuffed pancakes (fish rolls), triangle-shaped rotis filled with curried vegetables (elawalu roti), and steamed rice dumplings filled with dal and jaggery (modakam). Popular at various food venues, these bite-sized treats pair perfectly with tea or soft drinks.

Kotthu: This iconic dish comprises shredded godamba roti (flattened bread) mixed on a heated grill with vegetables, eggs, and a choice of meats. Known for its characteristic tak-a-tak sound made during preparation, kotthu is a greasy, hearty meal often valued as a post-party remedy. Variations include additions like cheese or spices to create unique flavor profiles.

Raa, Toddy, and Arrack: Raa, commonly enjoyed in villages, is a mildly alcoholic drink made from sap harvested from palm trees. When distilled, it transforms into arrack, frequently featured in modern cocktails.

Hotel: Interestingly, this term refers not only to accommodations but also to affordable eateries where diners can enjoy filling meals side by side with locals.

Saivar kade: Initially a reference to vegetarian restaurants serving Tamil dishes like dosas and idli, it has broadened to denote any small establishment selling inexpensive food.

Ammachchi: In a bid to bolster female entrepreneurship, the Ministry of Agriculture initiated a program encouraging women-led restaurants, now known across the island as ammachi unavagam (grandma’s kitchen) or hela bojun hala (native food stall).

Choon paan: Vendors selling this popular snack often play Beethoven’s “Für Elise” while offering freshly baked short eats, which are usually displayed in glass cases on tuk tuks.

Dining Spots in Colombo

Upali’s by Nawaloka

A longstanding landmark in Colombo, Upali’s has welcomed patrons to explore Sri Lankan flavors for years. Located in a converted residential space with views of Viharamahadevi Park, the restaurant serves delicious breakfasts featuring kiribath (rice in coconut milk) with spicy chicken curry and lunu miris (a hot onion and chili relish), complemented by kola kenda, an herbal smoothie.

VOC Cafe

Housed in a building from the colonial era, VOC Cafe showcases a unique blend of culinary traditions from the Burgher community — descendants of Europeans who integrated with local populations. Their lamprais, a dish comprising baked rice, various meat curries, and vegetables wrapped in a banana leaf, offers a true taste of the region.

Gini

Regarded as one of the best places to dine in Colombo, Gini focuses on open-fire cooking, emphasizing seasonal ingredients. Dishes feature fresh oysters and grilled squid paired with sauces that highlight local flavors.

Cyril Rodrigo’s Green Cabin

Dating back to 1884, this fifth-generation bakery has played a pivotal role in the short eats scene in Colombo. While famed for its variety of shorties, it also serves appam (hoppers), delicious bowl-shaped snacks made from fermented rice flour, perfect with egg or sweet toppings.

Perera & Sons

One of Sri Lanka’s oldest bakeries, Perera & Sons is the go-to spot for locals craving daily short eats. Their offerings include savory rolls stuffed with egg and spiced minced fish, along with curried fish-filled buns.

Top Eateries in Southern Sri Lanka

Metta’s Homecooking

Located in tourist-friendly Unawatuna, Aunty Mettha serves home-cooked favorites such as fried rice, kotthu, and rice with curry in a welcoming atmosphere. Her ambarella curry, featuring the tart flavor of unripe june plums, is a must-try.

Duni’s Hoppers

In Hiriketiya, this small vegan cafe is celebrated for its innovative hoppers, featuring vibrant beetroot-colored varieties served with unique accompaniments like dal and coconut yogurt.

Luuma

Outside the hustle of Galle, Luuma offers a serene dining experience by the beach. Dishes include mahi-mahi with Thai herbs and coconut curry, alongside local seafood favorites like crabs and calamari.

Maru

Located in the UNESCO-recognized Galle Fort, Maru is a standout dining choice that fuses Mexican and Japanese influences into Sri Lankan cuisine, resulting in dishes like tuna poke bowls and nori tacos with local prawns.

Shanti Shanti

Situated on a stretch connecting Galle to Matara, Shanti Shanti is a beachside establishment favored by locals, serving pizzas with island-inspired toppings and seafood dishes while offering breathtaking sunset views.

Northern Sri Lanka Dining Highlights

Peninsula

At Jetwing’s Peninsula in Jaffna, daily buffets feature an array of flavorful dishes, including crab seasoned with roasted curry and a tamarind stew with seafood. The menu also highlights South Indian favorites such as dosas and pittu.

Fox Jaffna

Fox Jaffna is dedicated to showcasing the vibrant flavors of Northern cuisine with dishes like spicy prawn curry paired with idiyappam or the tangy mutton bone rasam. After dinner, visitors can explore the site’s historical bunkers now transformed into art galleries.

Tiki

A true hidden gem, Tiki offers an intimate dining experience with seafood sourced fresh from the market. Dishes are inspired by seasonality and often feature locally caught prawns and spices.

Lavin’s

At Lavin’s in Jaffna, diners can enjoy South Indian vegetarian meals served on banana leaves. Breakfast here is popular for crispy dosas, while lunch options center around flaky parotta accompanied by coconut chutney and chickpea curry.

Best Drinking Establishments in Sri Lanka

Labookellie Tea Lounge

Conveniently located in Colombo’s Marino Mall, Labookellie Tea Lounge features a selection of Sri Lankan teas, complemented by freshly baked pastries and a view of the coast.

Uncle’s

Stay up late with a drink at Uncle’s, a popular bar on Park Street known for its creative use of arrack in cocktails, pairing local flavors with tasty bites.

Smoke & Bitters

Recognized as one of Sri Lanka’s premier bars, Smoke & Bitters, situated in Hiriketiya, offers a mixology experience based on native ingredients, earning a spot on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list.

Kaiyo

Kaiyo is an innovative sushi bar in Weligama that presents cocktails inspired by various regions of Sri Lanka, such as the whiskey-based Sabaragamuwa.

Zephyr Ceylon

Located in Kamburugamuwa, Zephyr Ceylon offers a laid-back beach bar atmosphere with stunning sunset views, serving food and spicy cocktails to pair with the scenery.

Top Food Markets in Sri Lanka

Saturday Good Market

In the upscale neighborhood of Cinnamon Gardens, this weekly market showcases sustainable crafts alongside various food vendors offering unique local snacks, including achcharu (pickled fruits) and Tamil breakfast options.

Jaffna Market

The bustling Jaffna central market is vibrant with fresh produce from local farms, displaying an array of fruits such as Karthakolomban mango and varieties of bananas.

Negombo Fish Market

In Negombo, the fish market is an experience unto itself, filled with the scents of drying salted fish. Early morning vendors eagerly prepare fresh catches while lively negotiations create a vibrant atmosphere.

Anantara Peace Haven

Anantara provides culinary experiences such as cooking classes with local chefs and features the fine dining Italian restaurant, Il Mare, recognized for its exceptional cuisine.

Source
www.eater.com

Discover a Delightful Array of Seafood, Coconut Curries, and Crispy Fried Snacks in Sri Lanka