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The Coffee Culture of Trieste: A Journey Through Italy’s Hidden Gem

Italy is often heralded for its vibrant coffee culture, with many enthusiasts reveling in its rich traditions and flavors. As a devoted coffee drinker, I pride myself on my knowledge of Italian coffee, typically opting for a classic macchiato. Yet, during my visit to Trieste, I discovered a world of coffee that expanded my understanding and appreciation for this beloved beverage.

Trieste, nestled in the northeastern corner of Italy, is often referred to as the true capital of coffee. Upon arriving at the Antico Caffè San Marco, I quickly realized that my expectations were about to be challenged. The closest variation to my favorite macchiato was a goccia, an espresso topped with a hint of milk foam. In Trieste, ordering an espresso simply requires asking for a nero, a stark contrast to the usual request for a standard cup across much of Italy. The locals often order a capo in b, similar to a cappuccino but served in a glass and with less milk, typically accompanied by a glass of mineral water—a tradition reminiscent of the elaborate coffeehouses of Vienna.

Trieste’s significance in the coffee industry is notable; it stands as the Mediterranean’s leading port for importing beans from Africa and South America. While Lavazza may dominate the coffee scene in Turin, Trieste’s reputation has been crafted by Illy. The average local is said to consume around 22 pounds of coffee annually, which is nearly double that of the national average. Such consumption habits arguably foster a rich literary culture in Trieste, as the city has been home to numerous writers including Casanova and poet Rainer Maria Rilke.

To gain deeper insights into Trieste’s unique coffee landscape, I sat down with Cristina Favento, a travel and food journalist who has explored the history of the city’s cafés. We met at Caffè degli Specchi, located in the picturesque Piazza della Unità. Favento recounted the evolution of coffee culture in Trieste, noting a time when four cafés filled the square and curious patrons had succinct names for their coffee orders, contributing to the distinctiveness of the local coffee scene.

The city’s rich coffee history can be traced back to its days as a major seaport for the Austro-Hungarian Empire, largely due to the tax exemptions on coffee imports initiated in 1719. This openness attracted diverse communities, many of whom entered the coffee trade, further enriching Trieste’s coffee culture. After World War I, as Trieste became part of Italy, its coffee traditions remained intact, blending influences from Central Europe. Triestini, for example, might opt for brioche or strucolo, a local variant of strudel, rather than the Italian cornetti, when enjoying their morning espresso.

Today, Trieste boasts at least ten historic cafés with their own unique ambiance. The oldest, Caffè Tommaseo, founded in 1830, features stunning interiors adorned with cherubs and plush velvet seating. Caffè Urbanis offers a lively terrace where patrons can enjoy a shakerato, an iced espresso drink. However, the charming Antico Caffè Torinese particularly captured my interest, with its décor reminiscent of an ocean liner, making each visit feel like stepping back in time.

Literary connections are also part of Trieste’s café legacy. Caffè Pirona, where author James Joyce often frequented during his stay, is steeped in history. While enjoying a drink, I engaged with barista Massimo Zulian about the capo in b, which he explained was traditionally served in glassware to help outdoor workers warm their hands during the city’s chilly winters.

Before leaving Trieste, I found myself back at Caffè San Marco, a place that has secured its spot as one of my all-time favorite cafés. Nestled alongside a wonderful bookstore, Libreria San Marco, the café is a haven for literary enthusiasts. The inviting, dimly lit space, adorned with a delicate frieze of golden coffee leaves, creates an inspiring atmosphere for writers and readers alike.

As I savored my freshly ordered capo scuro, an enriched macchiato, I couldn’t help but reflect on the profound journey through Trieste’s coffee culture. This city is indeed a treasure for those who cherish coffee and appreciate the rich tapestry of history woven through each cup.

A version of this story first appeared in the December 2024 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “A City Abuzz.

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