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Exploring Santa Fe’s Rich Ceramics Culture

Sitting at the potter’s wheel in downtown Santa Fe, I immersed myself in the tactile experience of sculpting with wet clay. “Breathe,” my instructor, Heidi Loewen, reminded me as I adjusted the speed of the wheel. “When learning something new, like this, excitement can overshadow our breaths.” It was true; I needed to pause and regain my composure.

I have developed a keen interest in pottery over time. What began with purchasing quirky mugs at mainstream stores transformed into a passion for handcrafted pieces after discovering a unique mug at an arts festival in Atlanta. Now, I savor my coffee in creations from renowned makers such as East Fork in Asheville, North Carolina. Each piece resonates with individuality, reminding me that ceramics is a universal art form that has persisted across cultures and epochs. Given that clay is a material found globally, it draws a common thread through human experience.

Santa Fe boasts a remarkable ceramics tradition, deeply woven into the fabric of Native American culture in the Southwest. The city’s museums are rich with clay artifacts that reflect centuries of craftsmanship. There is also a vibrant arts community here, filled with galleries, studios, markets, and festivals that celebrate ceramic arts. It could be argued that the city’s traditional adobe structures are embodiments of pottery in their architectural essence.

Desiring to connect with this vibrant culture, I traveled west from Atlanta with my husband, Jon, and our young daughter. Upon our arrival at Santa Fe Plaza—the lively nucleus of the historic downtown—we were surrounded by ceramics at every turn.

With over 250 galleries to explore, I planned my visits strategically. My first stop was Andrea Fisher Fine Pottery, established in 1993, known for its focus on pottery from the region’s pueblos. The diversity and quality of the items were astounding. I admired a glossy black jar adorned with dragonfly carvings by Daniel Begay from Santa Clara Pueblo. Though eager to purchase, I decided it was wise to browse more before making a commitment.

Next, we meandered along Canyon Road, a half-mile stretch populated with approximately 80 galleries. I was particularly enchanted by Morningstar Gallery, known for its Native American art, and Tierra Mar, which featured a contemporary sculpture garden that caught my eye. While I loved the whimsical creations of artist Andrea Pichaida, I hesitated to purchase, knowing how delicate they would be around my energetic five-year-old.

After a long day, we returned to the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi, an elegant adobe hotel located near the plaza. The ambiance was enhanced by pottery displays scattered throughout, from vases on the mantle to decorative bowls in the library.

The following morning, we enjoyed brunch at Café Pasqual’s, housed in another adobe structure where chef Katharine Kagel serves up organic New Mexican cuisine. The dining room showcased vintage tiles crafted by the now-defunct Malibu Potteries, adding character to the space. After savoring stacked enchiladas, I explored the upstairs showroom filled with artisan crafts displayed on timeless wooden shelves.

Artisans occasionally demonstrate their skills there, and that day, I had the privilege of watching Clarence Cruz, a ceramics professor from the University of New Mexico and member of the Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo. He skillfully molded clay mixed with mica into cookware, explaining his process as he crafted a pot on the wheel. “I gather all my materials personally,” he shared. As he shaped the soft clay, it took form into a beautifully substantial pot.

As the piece needed to dry for a few days before firing, Cruz showcased some finished wares, whose surfaces shimmered subtly from the melted mica. While tempted to buy a bean pot, I opted for a travel-friendly plate instead.

To delve into Santa Fe’s ceramic heritage, I toured the Indian Arts Research Center, which houses over 12,000 items from New Mexico’s pueblos. This museum is considered sacred ground, and as volunteer docent Jim Regnier explained, Native visitors often pray upon entering, perceiving these artifacts as living entities.

Having viewed numerous magnificent creations, I was eager to create my own piece, so the next day, I visited Heidi Loewen Porcelain. Under her expert guidance, I crafted two bowls and a vase in a two-hour class. The experience was both exhilarating and exhausting, providing deeper insight into the dedication required for every ceramic piece.

Later, I reunited with my family at Tumbleroot Pottery Pub, a unique bar where patrons can use potter’s wheels while enjoying drinks. Angela Smith Kirkman, the owner, encapsulated the ambiance perfectly when she said, “What’s my favorite thing in the world? Sitting around, playing with clay, and drinking cocktails.” Our family exchanged screens for sculpting clay, creating pinch pots and abstract shapes as we spent quality time together.

That evening, we settled into our accommodations at the Inn of the Five Graces, an exquisite hotel with 24 suites exquisitely furnished with items from around the world, featuring hand-carved woodwork and beautiful turquoise ceramic accents. The intricate mosaic murals in the bathrooms added a touch of elegance, making me feel as though I were residing in a desert palace.

Reflecting on my trip, I downloaded memorable souvenirs from my journey. Among the five pieces, one truly stood out—a pottery vase from the Railyard Artisan Market. There, I met Irvin Louis, a potter from Acoma Pueblo, who employed a meticulous horsehair technique, resulting in surfaces reminiscent of polished marble. Upon closer examination, intricate details arose: images of people, encircling jagged mountains, and tiny turquoise accents.

Louis shared that the vase depicted his family—the Yellow Corn Clan—performing a rain dance. I carefully wrapped it and added it to my suitcase, knowing that this remarkable piece now connects my family with his, weaving our stories together through the timeless art of pottery.

A version of this story first appeared in the November 2024 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “Down to Earth.”

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