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When I decided to replace the classic wedding cake with a DIY cookie buffet for my backyard celebration in Vermont, I didn’t anticipate stumbling upon a remarkable baking tip. My primary goal was to cater to various tastes with a colorful assortment of cookies, featuring beloved classics like chocolate chip, refreshing lemon bars (which were perhaps better suited to a cooler day), and elegant oatmeal lace cookies.
However, the standout treats came from the innovative recipes of Christina Tosi, particularly her chocolate malted brownie cookies featured in All About Cookies. The secret component was a half-cup of malted milk powder mixed into the batter, along with a sprinkle on top. After baking my first batch, I was captivated by how this simple powder deepened the flavor of the cookies, imparting a delightful tang and rich umami character.
Inspired by the initial success, I began experimenting with malted milk in various recipes, including chocolate chip cookies, German almond crescents, and shortbread. Each batch yielded a comforting warmth and richness that made even the most basic butter cookies irresistibly intriguing.
Having never used malted milk powder before, I delved into its properties. Distinct from powdered milk or standard malt powder, malted milk powder combines dried malted barley, wheat flour, and evaporated milk powder. Initially created in the 1880s as a nutritional supplement for infants, it transitioned into a beloved ingredient for sodas and candy. Many contemporary brands, such as Carnation, also mix in baking soda, enhancing the rising of baked goods.
The allure of malted milk powder in baking lies in its ability to introduce a unique flavor profile—rich and nutty with caramel undertones—that beautifully balances sweetness with underlying umami. It also promotes browning due to the caramelization of milk sugars. To prevent over-browning, it’s advisable to keep an eye on your treats and potentially pull them from the oven a minute or two earlier than usual. Although it’s derived from wheat, malted milk powder doesn’t behave like gluten-rich flour. Instead, it contributes to a softer texture in baked goods. I recommend using about 2 to 4 tablespoons per batch to start. Be mindful of its sodium content and adjust the salt in your recipe accordingly. For a nostalgic twist, consider using chocolate-flavored Ovaltine in recipes featuring chocolate.
Since discovering the benefits of malted milk powder before my wedding, I have always kept a container of Carnation in my pantry. It has become an essential ingredient in everything from quick breads to brownies, nutty biscotti, and even sandwich bread. This affordable pantry staple continues to delight my guests and encourage them to come back for more.
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www.eater.com