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Discovering Verona: A Guide to the City of Romance

Top 5 Can’t Miss

Wander along the picturesque cobblestone paths of Città Antica and stop by Casa di Giulietta, the iconic residence of Shakespeare’s Juliet. Experience a captivating opera performance at the Arena, one of the largest surviving Roman amphitheaters globally. Stay at the illustrious Hotel Due Torri, boasting a rich history and a collection of stunning antiques. Indulge in local wines such as Lugana and Valpolicella at Caffè Monte Baldo, a revered wine bar famous for its cicchetti (small plates). Enjoy a menu that blends French culinary techniques with local ingredients at Trattoria I Masenini, one of Verona’s top dining establishments.

Despite being recognized as the backdrop for Shakespeare’s renowned tragedy, Romeo and Juliet, Verona often remains an overlooked destination for travelers to Italy. Nestled in the northern region of Veneto, it is conveniently situated approximately 75 minutes from Venice and Milan by high-speed train. Its proximity to Lake Garda further enhances its appeal as a noteworthy stop in northern Italy.

The history of Verona can be traced back to ancient tribes, evolving into a Roman colony established in 89 B.C.E. This rich past is still evident throughout the city, earning it the nickname “little Rome.” Among its historical sites, the Arena of Verona stands out as the third-largest surviving Roman amphitheater in the world, hosting a famed opera festival each summer. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Verona came under the rule of the powerful della Scala family, the very era that inspired Shakespeare’s tragic tale of love. Today, visitors flock to the city to explore the landmarks that influenced this timeless story.

During a recent visit to Verona, I was captivated by its charming streets, the flowing Adige River, and an array of exceptional dining options where I tried local delicacies such as risotto and Lugana wine sourced from Lake Garda. To gain insider knowledge, I consulted travel experts Fulvio De Bonis, co-founder of Imago Artis Travel, and Domenica Maruzzo, a Verona native who still relishes the city’s sights and culture.

Best Hotels and Resorts

Hotel Due Torri

The Hotel Due Torri, a historical gem, originally opened as an inn in the 14th century and rose to prominence as Verona’s premier luxury hotel in the 1800s. Notably, it was a favored establishment for opera diva Maria Callas, who would often greet her fans from her suite balcony. This member of the Leading Hotels of the World is adorned with exquisite antiques and artworks. Its rooftop restaurant is particularly popular during summer for its grilled seafood and meats.

Vista Verona

“For a more contemporary stay, I recommend Vista Verona,” says Maruzzo. “This hotel, opened a few years ago, boasts a stunning rooftop terrace with breathtaking views of the historical architecture surrounding Corticella Leoni.”

Byblos Art Hotel Villa Amistà

Located just 20 minutes from Verona’s center, the Byblos Art Hotel Villa Amistà is set within a stunning 16th-century villa surrounded by manicured gardens. Inside, vibrant furnishings and over 180 pieces of modern and contemporary art from renowned artists like Jean-Michel Basquiat and Damien Hirst create a striking contrast with the villa’s classic architecture. Guests can unwind at the outdoor pool, enjoy treatments at the spa, or savor gourmet meals at the on-site restaurant.

Things to Do

Visit Casa di Giulietta

A trip to Verona is incomplete without visiting Juliet’s House. The courtyard is one of the city’s most captured locations, often bustling with tourists. Inside, you can view the famous balcony, a statue of Juliet, and other artifacts that celebrate the narrative of her tragic love story.

Experience a Performance at the Arena

“The Arena is the most magnificent remnant of ancient Roman architecture, comparable to the Colosseum, built in the early first century C.E. and originally designed for gladiatorial battles,” remarks De Bonis. “Today, it serves as a venue for over 600,000 opera aficionados each summer, boasting the largest outdoor opera season globally. The acoustics and set designs are nothing short of spectacular, creating an experience that lingers in memory.”

Climb the Tower at Museo di Castelvecchio

Maruzzo suggests visiting the Museo di Castelvecchio, a site of personal significance where she penned her college thesis. This 14th-century castle features an extensive collection of medieval and Renaissance art, carefully curated to enhance the museum’s aesthetic and visitor experience.

Enjoy the Views from Castel San Pietro

“Reaching Castel San Pietro requires a bit of effort, but the vista from the Roman Theater to the fortified citadel is truly unforgettable,” shares Maruzzo. For ease, you can opt for the funicular which offers a scenic ride for just €3 round trip.

Explore the Art Collection at Palazzo Maffei

Situated in the lively Piazza delle Erbe, the Palazzo Maffei houses an impressive collection of over 600 art pieces spanning 2,000 years. Here, contemporary works by artists like Picasso intertwine with antique furnishings and rare books, creating an engaging dialogue across time. Be sure to ascend to the rooftop terrace for stunning views of the bustling piazza below.

Best Shopping

San Zeno Antiques Market

“On the first Sunday of each month, the San Zeno neighborhood transforms into a treasure trove of modern antiques,” remarks Maruzzo. The outdoor market features over 200 exhibitors showcasing vintage art, décor, and clothing from throughout northern Italy.

Gulp

Located on Corso Sant’Anastasia, a street renowned for its antiques, this small boutique specializes in exquisite Murano glass creations, including vases, decorative items, and jewelry.

Rizoma

Maruzzo refers to this shop as a hidden gem, particularly highlighting “the whimsical creations of Giulia Tosi,” a local designer celebrated for her colorful, cartoon-inspired pieces.

Best Nightlife

Amaro

“One of my favorite spots for an aperitivo is Amaro, which holds sentimental value as it’s located in the piazza of my childhood,” shares Maruzzo. “Sip on a fine americano while reminiscing about my childhood experiences, plus there’s an intriguing underground speakeasy!”

Romeo Bistrot & Cocktail Bar

This atmospheric bar and bistro specializes in artisan cocktails, including a unique take on the Negroni aged in terracotta amphoras. The atmospheric upper level is particularly captivating, with shelves filled with luminous bottles creating a magical ambiance.

Caffè Monte Baldo

Tucked away on a serene side street, this historic wine bar offers a wide variety of cicchetti to pair with local wines. Guests can delve into exceptional selections like Lugana and full-bodied Amarone from the Valpolicella region, alongside a comprehensive menu of pasta and other dishes.

Terrazza Bar Al Ponte

“This trendy bar offers stunning views of the Adige River and is known for its signature cocktails,” explains De Bonis. It’s the perfect setting to unwind and soak in Verona’s skyline at sunset.

Best Restaurants

Trattoria I Masenini

This upscale restaurant near the Museo di Castelvecchio offers a refined dining experience. The inviting atmosphere features wooden beams, chandeliers, and a checkerboard floor. The menu artfully marries French culinary techniques with local ingredients, highlighting dishes like escargot in potato leek soup and grilled lobster served with tarragon bearnaise sauce.

Locanda ai Quattro Cuochi

According to Maruzzo, Locanda ai Quattro Cuochi is her top pick. “The menu adapts with the seasons, featuring modern interpretations of classic dishes. Their risottos are exceptional!”

Antica Bottega del Vino

Lauded for its extensive wine list, this historic wine bar and restaurant serves traditional Veronese cuisine, including baccalà mantecato over polenta, risotto made with Amarone wine, and slow-braised beef cheek over creamy mashed potatoes.

Trattoria Al Pompiere

“For traditional Veronese fare, my favorite is Trattoria al Pompiere,” says De Bonis, recommending their signature offerings like pastissada de caval (horse meat stew) and baccalà alla vicentina (salted cod). “While they provide a top-tier culinary experience, it’s competitively priced compared to many high-end establishments, making it a beloved choice for an authentic dining experience away from the tourist throngs.”

Pasticceria Flego

Run by two brothers, Pasticceria Flego is cherished for its contemporary twist on classic recipes. Their offerings include an array of vibrant cakes, pastries, and macarons, but for a true local taste, be sure to sample the torta russa, a traditional puff pastry filled with almonds, amaretti, and eggs, available at several locations across Verona, including a popular one on Corso Porta Borsari.

Neighborhoods to Visit

Città Antica

The Città Antica, Verona’s historic center, is ensconced in a bend of the Adige River and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This area showcases the city’s key squares, including Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza Bra, along with monuments such as Casa di Giulietta and the Arena. First-time visitors will likely find themselves immersed here, enjoying the romantic ambiance as they explore the narrow, enchanting streets.

I Filippini

“I Filippini is my childhood neighborhood, relatively untouched by mass tourism. Nestled between the Church of San Fermo and the Adige, it features historic buildings from the 1700s facing the river,” Maruzzo explains. “I enjoy wandering through its narrow lanes and reliving the views of my youth.”

Veronetta

Veronetta, located on the eastern bank of the Adige, is home to the University of Verona, lending it a vibrant and bohemian feel. Accessed by crossing the historic Ponte Pietra bridge, Veronetta offers proximity to the Roman Theater and the funicular leading to Castel San Pietro.

San Zeno

Just beyond the Città Antica, San Zeno is a charming neighborhood characterized by leafy streets and scenic parks. Dominating this area is the Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore, an exquisite example of Romanesque architecture that honors the city’s patron saint. This picturesque locale also hosts the monthly antiques market on the first Sunday.

Best Time to Visit

According to Maruzzo, summer is perhaps the most enjoyable season to visit, as the Arena hosts a remarkable opera season, offering a chance to witness extraordinary performances, enhanced by the cool escape to nearby Lake Garda.

In the fall and winter months, the Fondazione Arena di Verona frequently presents concerts at the Teatro Filarmonico, one of Europe’s prominent opera venues. Visiting in the shoulder seasons allows tourists to experience the city with fewer crowds. Every April, Verona also hosts Vinitaly, one of the world’s foremost wine fairs.

How to Get There

Verona is easily accessible via Valerio Catullo Airport (VRN), situated just 20 minutes from the city center and predominantly served by European connections. The nearest major international airport is Venice Marco Polo (VCE), approximately 90 minutes away. Additionally, Verona boasts excellent train connectivity throughout Italy.

How to Get Around

Verona’s compact historic center is predominantly flat, making it ideal for exploration by foot or bicycle.

Public Transit: The city’s bus system, operated by Azienda Trasporti Verona (ATV), offers convenient transport options. Tickets are priced at €2 if purchased on board and €1.50 at ticket outlets, newsagents, or through the Ticket Bus Verona app, valid for 90 minutes.

Taxi: The local taxi service, Radio Taxi Verona, offers a fixed fare of €30 from Catullo Airport to key destinations in the city center on weekdays, increasing to €35 during evenings and weekends (with additional charges for luggage). Typically, fares are calculated based on time and distance. For convenience, you can use the itTaxi app or call +39 045 532666 to arrange a taxi.

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