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The Allure of Luxor: A Timeless Journey Through History and Contemporary Luxury

Luxor, a city that seems to reach ever upwards, mirrors the aspirations of its inhabitants. Roofs give way to brick columns, sprouting rebar, as homeowners capitalize on a tax loophole that encourages ongoing construction. This aversion to completion can be traced to the city’s storied past as the capital of ancient Egypt from 1570 to 1069 B.C., where every new pharaoh contributed to the expansive temple complexes that symbolize the city’s enduring legacy. Today, buoyed by a resurgence of tourism, Luxor continues its growth trajectory.

In its prime, Luxor was revered as Wase, the city of the scepter, believed to host the god Amon alongside a dedicated cult. The Greeks later transformed the name to Thebes, possibly inspired by a notable temple. The contemporary name, Luxor, is derived from the Arabic Al-‘Uqsur, translating to “the palaces.” Some claim this term influenced the evolution of the word luxurious, a legacy perhaps echoed in the city’s broad avenues alongside the Nile and the grand festivities of yore, which included wine-infused revelry and festive pauses for celebration.

The zealous construction of temples by pharaohs in dedication to Amon has left behind the magnificent sandstone remnants of the Luxor and Karnak temples on the east bank of the Nile, which continue to awe visitors. The Colossi of Memnon, misidentified as representations of the Greek deity Memnon instead of Amenhotep III, who erected them in 1350 B.C., are additional testaments to this historical grandeur.

Amenhotep III, whose dynasty included the renowned Tutankhamun, was laid to rest in the nearby Valley of the Kings, a site steeped in history recognized by travelers since at least the era of Christ. This archaeological site has captivated visitors through the ages, from ancient tourists to modern luminaries such as the actor Roger Moore, who famously filmed “The Spy Who Loved Me” at Luxor in the 1970s.

One of the most well-known fictional characters to grace Luxor’s landscape was Hercule Poirot, who stayed at the historic Winter Palace hotel before embarking on a voyage aboard the steamship Sudan in an adaptation of Agatha Christie’s famous novel “Death on the Nile.” While her tales have proven beneficial for tourism, the reality of the Winter Palace and its once resplendent gardens is a stark contrast to their past glory. Rumors of a new ownership and subsequent renovations may breathe fresh life into the establishment amidst the ambitious Four Seasons resort taking shape nearby.

The aftermath of the pandemic, coupled with excitement surrounding the Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza, which is expected to open by the end of 2024, has positioned Egypt as a premier travel destination. As the region stabilizes following concerns over the Gaza conflict, tourism numbers are predicted to rise dramatically in 2025.

If Poirot were to return today, he would observe that many contemporary travelers, likely inspired by his journey, now favor the western bank of the Nile for their accommodations. Tucked away through the sugarcane fields is Al Moudira, meaning “the boss” in Arabic, a moniker honoring founder Zeina Aboukheir, a Lebanese artist who began constructing the hotel in 1999. This enchanting retreat blends soaring adobe suites within a lush garden, offering a haven for artists and musicians to congregate over culinary delights ranging from Nile perch to a rich garlic dip known as tomeya.

Fashion designer Rick Owens, who dubbed his fall 2023 collection “Luxor” and regards the city as a winter getaway, has become a regular at Al Moudira. Owens likened it to the famed Chateau Marmont of the late eighties, praising the site for its understated grandeur.

Al Moudira also boasts exceptional guides for exploring Luxor’s rich history. An unforgettable excursion with guide Ahmed Hammam led to the Colossi, the Valley of the Kings, and the iconic temple of Luxor. Our journey culminated along the Avenue of the Sphinxes, a storied pathway that connects the Luxor and Karnak temples, once adorned with over a thousand statues, now largely accessible only to ticket holders.

From this vantage point, the towering sandstone pylons of Luxor’s temple rose majestically against the clear sky. The scene was alive with locals in elegant djellabas moving emerald sugarcane and women in vibrant headscarves watching from decorated tuk-tuks. Tourists traversed the city in horse-drawn carriages and air-conditioned vehicles, filled with anticipation for their Nile excursions or for their own leisurely exploration of the temples, allowing them to luxuriate back through time.

A version of this story first appeared in the May 2025 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “Style on the Nile.”

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