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Finding Sanctuary at the Fife Arms in the Scottish Highlands
As winter began to give way to spring, I found myself enjoying one of those unforgettable hotel experiences that often accompany my travels—a true blessing in my line of work. My destination was the Fife Arms, a beautifully restored 19th-century coaching inn nestled in the Scottish Highlands. This enchanting oasis has been reimagined over the past six years by Manuela and Iwan Wirth, founders of the esteemed Hauser & Wirth gallery. The hotel, part of their expanding Artfarm collection—which includes the delightful Fish Shop restaurant nearby—quickly garnered accolades, making its debut on our Hot List for standout hotels, cruises, and dining spots the year it opened. Additionally, it has been featured in our Gold List of favorite establishments multiple times and has consistently won recognition in the Readers’ Choice Awards for six consecutive years, clearly capturing the hearts of many travelers.
During my stay, I often reflected on the concept of a hotel serving as a refuge. With a challenging winter behind me—not just personally, but globally—I was in dire need of respite. The Fife Arms provided the peace I sought. I found solace in its highly curated yet welcoming drawing room, where I could immerse myself in a book beneath a late Picasso painting while sipping on an elegant cocktail inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli or simply enjoying a cup of tea. Dining on classic fish and chips with crushed peas at the quirky Flying Stag pub, adorned with unique taxidermy, added to the charm of my experience. Meanwhile, Bertie’s Whisky Bar, resembling a “jewel box” with its warm glow and an extensive collection of Scotch whisky, offered a chance to delve into the rich traditions of whisky-making, enhancing my knowledge and appreciation.
Perhaps even more rejuvenating was my daily hill walking in the stunning Cairngorms mountains. Surrounded by the majesty of pine forests, peat bogs, and vibrant heather, I encountered the local wildlife, including golden eagles, playful red squirrels, and the cutest little frogs. These moments spent in nature, both inside the Fife Arms and out, allowed me to find a much-needed tranquility.
Interestingly, the roles of a hotelier and a travel editor are not unlike one another. Both seek to curate experiences filled with beauty, joy, and narrative to inspire happiness in others, offering insights into leading a richer life. In uncertain times, I believe this mission holds even greater significance.
This article first appeared in the May/June 2025 issue of Condé Nast Traveler.
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