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In the realm of egg substitutes, Lars Varley, the chef de cuisine at HAGS in New York City, emphasizes the importance of finding the right “goo” for baking. Eggs play a pivotal role in recipes, helping with binding, moisture, fat, and aeration. As Varley notes, there are various reasons—such as allergies, personal beliefs, or cost—that may lead individuals to seek out alternatives to eggs.
To effectively replace eggs, Varley advises understanding the specific function that eggs serve in a given recipe. With a background in vegan baking, he encourages a creative approach in finding suitable replacements. Here’s a comprehensive guide on egg alternatives, as discovered through the expertise of vegan pastry chefs.
Flaxseed
The flaxseed “egg” is a well-known and straightforward substitute. To create it, simply combine 1 tablespoon of ground flaxseed with 2 ½ tablespoons of water, allowing it to rest for about 10 minutes until it develops a gel-like consistency. A similar method applies to chia seeds which can also be used in identical proportions. Kym Estrada, the proprietor of San & Wolves, a vegan Filipino bakery in Long Beach, California, frequently uses flax in her recipes, describing it as a reliable choice.
While flax doesn’t provide the same aeration properties as eggs, its stickiness makes it great for binding ingredients together. Varley highlights that flax is particularly effective in denser baked goods like muffins and cookies, where a light crumb isn’t essential. The nutty flavor of flax also means it’s best used in recipes where stronger flavors, such as chocolate or carrot, can mask its taste.
Additionally, the visual appeal of baked goods is significant in creating positive perceptions, especially with vegan options, as Varley points out. Maintaining an appealing appearance is crucial to encouraging acceptance of alternative ingredients.
Applesauce or mashed bananas
Using applesauce or mashed bananas is advantageous since many people already have these ingredients on hand. Typically, the substitution ratio is ¼ cup of applesauce or one mashed banana for each egg. These fruit alternatives add moisture and binding to baked goods, something I confirmed while experimenting with an egg-free banana bread.
However, neither of these fruit options contributes significantly to lift, and their distinct flavors are challenging to hide in lighter recipes. Varley often chooses them for recipes where these flavors are intentional, as bananas may additionally contribute to a heavier texture. Moreover, Musselman’s points out that applesauce may not perform well as a substitute in recipes requiring more than three eggs.
Aquafaba
Aquafaba, the liquid from canned chickpeas, is a unique ingredient that can replicate the properties of egg whites. “It serves as a binder, a leavening agent, and adds structure,” says Estrada, emphasizing its versatility in creating meringues, a favorite at her bakery. Aquafaba is instrumental for crafting light and airy treats like waffles, macarons, and pavlovas.
The common conversion is three tablespoons of aquafaba for each large egg or two tablespoons for an egg white. Some bakers, like Nikki Arce from the vegan bakery Camellia Patisserie in Portland, Oregon, reduce aquafaba by half to concentrate its protein content prior to use. A typical can of chickpeas yields around ½ cup of aquafaba.
However, the properties of aquafaba can vary based on the brand of chickpeas, making consistency vital when finding a favorite. Arce also learned that chickpeas cooked with baking soda yield aquafaba that doesn’t whip well. To optimize the use of aquafaba, some bakers have turned to powdered versions, such as the one from Happy Dance.
Arce mentions that stabilizing aquafaba for meringues can be challenging. Gradual sugar incorporation or the inclusion of xanthan gum are techniques she employs. Recipe developer Nik Sharma has even discovered success by cooking chickpeas with kombu, which naturally contains carrageenan, yielding favorable results with certain chickpea brands noted for this technique.
Store-bought egg replacer powder
Commercial egg replacers offer a convenient option, designed to mimic the nutritional profile of eggs. For instance, Bob’s Red Mill offers a mixture that combines potato starch, tapioca flour, baking soda, and psyllium husk, which can also be mixed with water to form an egg substitute. Estrada appreciates this blend for its moisture retention in baked treats like cakes and brownies. Bob’s Red Mill provides varying ratios for substituting whole eggs, egg whites, or yolks but notes the mix isn’t suitable for applications requiring whipped egg whites.
Another notable brand, Ener-G, has a similar product but Varley has noted its declining availability. The lack of consistency in sourcing branded mixes can be a drawback as these products can vary in performance, impacting recipe outcomes.
Just Egg
Just Egg, derived from mung beans, closely resembles liquid eggs and is effective for scrambles, omelets, and even custard-style French toast. However, Estrada cautions that it’s typically not recommended for baking. While some bakers have had success using it for cookies and cake mixes, it carries a premium price point and has a shorter shelf life compared to other egg substitutes.
Potato protein
Arce has recently preferred potato protein—which is distinct from potato starch found in some egg replacers—over aquafaba for its reliability in achieving aeration in vegan baking. This option avoids the need for canned chickpeas, streamlining the process for bakers.
Nevertheless, potato protein can be challenging to procure. Currently, it appears most accessible from Spain and tends to be more expensive. While potato protein peptide powder is offered on platforms like Amazon, it’s primarily marketed for fitness, not as an egg substitute, which may affect its functionality.
Work around eggs completely
For cake recipes, both Varley and Estrada advocate for focusing on the recipe’s chemistry rather than attempting to modify egg-centered formulas. They recommend using leavening agents like baking powder or baking soda combined with non-dairy milk mixed with vinegar to simulate buttermilk. The reaction between the acidic milk and the leaveners can produce a desirable rise, especially in neutral vanilla cakes—Varley explains, “In vanilla cake, I prefer to keep all ingredients as neutral as possible.”
Instead of modifying existing recipes to eliminate eggs, adventurous bakers may find new, egg-free recipes that could become favorites in their repertoire.
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