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Eli Russell Linnetz: Navigating Fashion Amid Devastating Fires

Designer Eli Russell Linnetz found himself in a precarious situation just as he wrapped up his latest fall collection for ERL. The day before a crucial photoshoot, he received an urgent call from his sister, alerting him that he and his family needed to evacuate their home in Venice, California. The fires consuming Los Angeles had ignited nearby, forcing Linnetz to confront both the power of nature and the realities of his work.

During a recent showroom appointment in Paris, Linnetz shared that this season’s collection was originally inspired by a whimsical narrative of “Beverly Hills kids on a ski trip to Switzerland.” While elements of this theme, including outerwear, backpacks, and utility nylon pieces, are present, a significant aspect of this collection diverged from the initial vision, reflecting a more subdued and monochromatic aesthetic. This shift came as a response to his recent evacuation experience.

“We had just laid out the whole collection, but I couldn’t take everything,” Linnetz recounted. “That night I just grabbed the first things that came to mind to shoot. It was a very strange way to edit the collection,” he explained, noting how the unexpected circumstances led him to focus on his favorite pieces. Despite the chaos, this process turned into a refreshing reset for ERL, which celebrates its fifth anniversary this year.

“It’s a more mature approach,” he suggested, reflecting on the evolution of his work. ERL has consistently celebrated American culture and the oft-overlooked staples of American casualwear. In this collection, however, Linnetz shifted his attention away from narrative construction and placed it directly on the garments themselves, allowing for deeper exploration of the subtleties in his designs. He stated, “This, to me, is the modern American man,” highlighting the introduction of streamlined nylon tailoring and a selection of knitwear ranging from classic turtlenecks to distinctive chunky knits in neutral shades.

“I’m finding beauty in really simple, straightforward things,” Linnetz remarked, referencing the effortlessly appealing details in his pieces. He showcased a variety of trousers and shirts—think vintage-inspired jersey crewnecks and relaxed, wide-legged pants—crafted with a remarkably refined touch. “I want to create those things that you remember, but also don’t exactly exist,” he said, emphasizing his aim to evoke nostalgia while delivering originality. He pointed out that while these designs resonate with memories of simpler times, they also incorporate unique proportions and fabrications that set them apart.

Linnetz also expressed his commitment to supporting those affected by the fires, acknowledging that many of ERL’s top clients reside in the Palisades area. He has offered to replace lost items for his clients and is currently providing shelter for friends who lost their belongings in the devastation. “They’re now dressed exclusively in ERL,” he added with a hint of amusement. This moment crystallizes the dual nature of fashion: at times it may seem trivial, yet it also holds the potential to serve as a refuge during tough times. Linnetz finds himself balancing both perspectives, a process that will likely influence the direction of his brand for years to come. Given the evolution seen in this collection, the future appears bright for ERL.

Source
www.vogue.com