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Exploring Abisko, Sweden: A Northern Lights Adventure

A small village in Lapland, Abisko, Sweden, home to merely 150 residents, has established itself as one of the premier destinations globally for witnessing the northern lights.

Visitors have an impressive 88 percent chance of observing the aurora borealis during a three-day stay. This high likelihood is attributed to Abisko’s secluded location, minimal light pollution, and a unique microclimate. As western winds sweep across the Swedish mountains from the Arctic Ocean, a meteorological phenomenon occurs—a rain shadow that envelops Abisko, famously called the “blue hole.” This phenomenon results in significantly more clear skies compared to surrounding regions.

For my family and me, witnessing the northern lights was a top priority, leading me to suggest a trip to Abisko to increase our chances. The only logistical challenge was the village’s remote placement, situated 150 miles beyond the Arctic Circle.

Despite its isolation, Abisko is readily accessible by train from Stockholm, offering an enthralling 17-hour journey that showcases some of Sweden’s most breathtaking landscapes. This train ride is as much a part of the adventure as the destination itself.

Vy’s Norrland Night Train, or the Arctic Circle Train, departs daily from Stockholm Central Station at 6 p.m., arriving in Abisko by 11 a.m. Passengers can choose from various accommodations, including traditional seating, couchette bunk beds, and private sleeping compartments, catering to diverse preferences and budgets.

On a chilly February evening, my family and I joined fellow travelers on the NT 94 train, surrounded by cross-country skiers and others eager to see the northern lights. We secured traditional seats due to the unavailability of sleeping cars. Nonetheless, I was pleasantly surprised by the cleanliness of the cabin, which offered generous legroom, charging outlets at each seat, and reliable Wi-Fi.

After stowing our bags, we explored the train, making our way to the observation and dining cars, which promised stunning views and hearty meals. The onboard menu featured dishes inspired by the Norrland region, from köttbullar (Swedish meatballs) with mashed potatoes and lingonberries to grilled chicken wraps and reindeer flatbreads, all freshly prepared with local ingredients.

We spent many hours enjoying the observation car, sipping on Skogsglänta rooibos tea while delving into information about the science behind the northern lights and the history of the Sápmi region. The Sámi people, Sweden’s Indigenous inhabitants, have thrived in the Arctic for millennia, and their rich cultural traditions are evident through their reindeer herding, open-air museums, and sustainable tourism efforts.

In the early morning hours, we decided it was time to catch some rest before our exciting days ahead. However, I was soon jolted awake by joyful exclamations from fellow passengers, a group of students experiencing snow for the first time.

As I awoke, I was struck by the ethereal beauty of the glimmering snow, blanketing the towering pines and illuminating the ground. The soft sunrise painted the landscape in hues of gold as we zoomed past the spectacular scenery.

While Abisko is renowned for its northern lights, visitors encounter a wealth of experiences beyond that.

Crossing into the Arctic Circle transports you to a realm of tranquil light and breathtaking natural beauty. Here, we ventured across the frozen surface of Torneträsk lake, catching a glimpse of a solitary moose. We also enjoyed a thrilling husky sledding adventure and savored traditional Sámi cuisine around a roaring fire. During the day, we marveled at the solar halos—an enchanting counterpart to the magnificent northern lights.

Every night, as my sister, husband, and I lay on our backs atop the frozen lake in Abisko National Park, encased in cozy snowsuits, the lights performed a mesmerizing dance overhead. Starting as delicate pinks and evolving into vibrant greens and magentas, the auroras painted the sky like a magical ribbon. The stars seemed exceptionally bright, and the Milky Way stretched across the sky like a brilliant band of light, creating an unforgettable experience.

Three days later, our return journey to Stockholm on the Arctic Circle Train was much anticipated. This time, we opted for private compartments, elegantly designed with three berths, a sink, and all necessary linens and towels, with shared bathrooms nearby—a popular choice that often sells out quickly.

As the train departed, I reflected on how this remarkable railway system exemplifies how reachable even the most secluded locations can be, enabling travelers to experience untouched beauty.

As luck would have it, our northern lights adventure was not over; the return journey often offers one last glimpse of the auroras. I rushed back to the observation car just in time to witness the northern lights make a stunning final appearance.

Eventually, I settled into my berth for the night as the train rocked me to sleep. Our journey to Abisko for the northern lights had gifted us far more than we expected—a multitude of unforgettable experiences and cherished memories.

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