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Exploring the Enigmatic Lençóis Maranhenses National Park

Located in northeastern Brazil, Lençóis Maranhenses National Park is a remarkable landscape, characterized by expansive white sand dunes and striking blue lagoons. For Cassio José França Souza, who grew up in a nearby fishing village, the park is more than a scenic destination; it is home. On a sunlit morning, Souza described his unique tracks in the sand, noting how they reveal his identity, just as his wife’s smaller, rounder footprints tell her story.

Souza’s journey as a guide began 15 years ago when he was still a teenager, learning the nuances of the land from his wife, Maria dos Milagres. Their connection to the Lençóis goes beyond the surface; it is woven into the fabric of their lives. As we traversed the surreal landscape, with water reflecting the bright sky above, he spoke fondly of this environment that shaped them.

My fascination with Lençóis had unfolded over several years, fueled by stunning photographs and scientific studies uncovering the dynamics of this unique ecosystem. The dunes shift dramatically, sometimes moving inland by an impressive 32 feet annually, showcasing the ongoing influence of natural forces. Despite its ecological significance and beauty, there is a surprising lack of rich narratives surrounding the human connection to this area, leaving it feeling otherworldly.

Tourism in Lençóis is a relatively recent phenomenon. Initially, in the 1990s, adventurers sought the thrill of kitesurfing along coastal winds. The completion of a paved highway in 2002 opened the region to broader tourism, leading to the establishment of welcoming accommodations like La Ferme de Georges and the nomadic hotel 700,000 Heures. When international travel became difficult during the pandemic, Brazil’s affluent turned their sights inward, transforming Lençóis into a sought-after destination.

In 2023, the park welcomed over 250,000 visitors—an impressive 150 percent increase compared to 2020. They came to witness the mesmerizing landscapes that are as breathtaking in reality as they appear in photographs. My first day mirrored this sense of wonder as I followed Souza over sweeping sand drifts and dove into crystalline lagoons that seemed to merge with the sky. In moments of exhilaration, I found the shifting sands had erased my footprints, reminding me of the transitory nature of our presence in such a majestic place.

Accessing Lençóis requires considerable effort and planning, with my travels facilitated by a London-based agency. The journey began with a flight to Jericoacoara, a once-pristine resort now grappling with the environmental impacts of tourism. Guide Francisco Carvalho shared insights into local changes, where fishing is declining and beloved sites like the Sunset Dune have diminished significantly. His observations served as a cautionary tale of the unintended consequences of burgeoning tourism.

The road led us to remote villages and untouched natural wonders, where we navigated through a labyrinth of mangroves, spotting Capuchin monkeys and vibrant crabs. Stoppages at local eateries like Raimundo Aires’ restaurant revealed a commitment to tradition amidst change—Aires has adapted to rising water levels while maintaining a touch of local charm.

We eventually arrived at La Ferme de Georges, where I enjoyed the tranquility of local gardens and the creations of villagers. One resident, Osmar Amorim, has worked tirelessly to preserve agricultural practices amid shifting local economies. He expressed a sense of joy in his work, showing how tourism can coexist with traditional values, albeit with deep implications for the community.

The following days introduced me to more of the Lençóis. Guided by Souza and Carvalho, I learned about the complexities of conservation and tourism’s dual-edged nature. While the national park established in 1981 provides a sanctuary for nature, it has imposed restrictions on the lives of local families, many of whom were unaware they were living on protected land. The irony was not lost on me as we explored the area—government efforts to protect nature often overlook the humans who have coexisted in it for generations.

Arriving at Oiá, another lodging established by São Paulo designer Marina Linhares, I experienced a blend of luxury and local culture through its decor and community engagement. Morning activities included kayaking in the Rio Alegre, showcasing the serene beauty that invites exploration, with the shifting dunes in sight echoing the stories of those who inhabit this land.

During an excursion to Travosa, I engaged with locals, including Alcione Galvão, who expressed aspirations for expanding tourism to help the community flourish. Her sentiments echoed those of many I encountered; while tourism can pose challenges, it also represents opportunity and hope.

The warmth and hospitality of the local people left a lasting impression. Spending time with Souza’s family in Baixa Grande proved that beneath changing circumstances, the essence of community and generosity remains strong. Their deep-rooted identities are etched in the very sands of Lençóis, a testament to both the challenges and the enduring spirit of life in this breathtaking landscape.

A version of this story first appeared in the February 2025 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “Into the Blue.”

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