Photo credit: explorersweb.com
Recently, it was highlighted that numerous challenging climbing routes remain to be explored around Mont Blanc. However, Leo Billon is progressing at such a remarkable pace that he may very well conquer a majority of these before the winter season concludes.
Just two weeks after establishing Les Barbares 2 on Pointe Raphaël Borgis, which stands at 3,683 meters, Billon transitioned to the Italian segment of the Mont Blanc massif. There, he successfully opened a more demanding path dubbed Les Barbares 3, a formidable 500-meter mixed route located on the north face of Pre de Bar, which reaches 3,659 meters. He has provisionally assigned it an M10 difficulty rating!
Billon accomplished this feat between February 18 and 20, alongside his climbing partner Enzo Oddo.
‘It’ll crack your neurons’
Although the team has not yet released a comprehensive report of their climb, Billon cautioned those who may attempt to repeat the ascent: “Be careful, it will contract your shoulders, pull on your wrists, hurt your calves, crack your neurons, and tighten your buttocks.”
One of the bivouacs on ‘Les Barbares 3.’ Photo: GMHM Chamonix
The M (mixed) grading system ranges from M1 to the exceedingly rare M14. As per the American Alpine Club, an M10 classification necessitates “at least 10 meters of horizontal rock or 30 meters of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests.”
An overhanging section of the route. Photo: GMHM Chamonix
While further details are awaited, the images available offer an impressive glimpse into the scale and challenge of this adventure.
The wild side of Mont Blanc
The duo faced severe weather conditions on Pre de Bar. Photo: GMHM Chamonix
The Italian face of the Mont Blanc massif, overlooking the Aosta Valley, features an array of rugged peaks, hosting some of the most demanding climbing routes in Western Europe.
The Pointe de Pre de Bar towers above its namesake glacier, nestled between notable peaks such as the Aiguille du Triolet and Mont Dolent.
A night section of the climb. Photo: GMHM Chamonix
Overshadowed no longer
For a significant time, Leo Billon’s achievements have been somewhat eclipsed by the breathtaking feats of his frequent climbing partner, Benjamin Vedrines. Nevertheless, Corporal Billon, who has been a member of the French High Mountain Military Group since 2017, is a climber of remarkable skill and tenacity. He embodies a new wave of exceptional French alpinists alongside Vedrines.
In the fall of 2024, Billon was part of a team that sought to tackle the north face of Jannu East in Nepal employing an alpine style. To prepare for this bold endeavor, Billon and Vedrines ascended three of the iconic North Faces of the Alps during winter—the Dru, the Droites, and the Grandes Jorasses. Astonishingly, they completed this challenging trio on-sight within just three days. The duo has also engaged in fast-paced ski traverses together.
Source
explorersweb.com