Photo credit: explorersweb.com

Climbers Set Sights on Karun Koh in Pakistan

Joshua Harrin from the United States, Masha Gordon from Russia, Jack Sturm from France, and Oswaldo Freire from Ecuador are currently en route to the base of Karun Koh, a formidable peak standing at 6,977 meters in Pakistan’s Shimshal region.

The mountain gained notable attention in 2022 when Piolet d’Or laureates Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima successfully established a new alpine-style route. Their ascent marked only the second overall climb of the mountain, following an Austrian team’s journey via the Southwest Ridge four decades earlier. Hiraide and Nakajima’s path took them up the challenging Northwest Face.

The expedition team faced significant hurdles while accessing the mountain from the south. “It was quite challenging to navigate through the ravines to reach the glacier,” Freire shared with ExplorersWeb while contacting from the last location with Wi-Fi. “We had to secure ropes to assist the porters in moving through.”

For the next two weeks, the climbers will rely solely on satellite phone communication as they continue their ascent.

“We are currently evaluating several options for new routes and have identified two main lines, although a final decision has yet to be made,” Freire mentioned. The featured image illustrates both potential routes under consideration.

Previous Ascents and Difficulties

Freire has noted that the challenges presented by the south side of Karun Koh may surpass those encountered on the north face route, which Hiraide and Nakajima successfully navigated.

In the previous year, Jarrin and Freire established a remarkable direct route on the north face of Ganchempo, reaching an elevation of 6,387 meters in Nepal, showcasing their climbing expertise.

Source
explorersweb.com