Photo credit: www.vogue.com
Celebrating Elsa Peretti: A Legacy of Art and Design at Tiffany & Co.
In 1972, designer Elsa Peretti purchased a quaint cottage in Spain for just a few thousand dollars, a reflection of her modest beginnings. Fast forward fifty years, Tiffany & Co. is honoring her remarkable journey by introducing three new pieces inspired by her work: a bone ring, a split cuff ring, and a bone cuff crafted from 18-karat gold and adorned with pavé diamonds. These new creations echo the organic and sensual quality of her earlier designs, retaining their relevance and allure. The history of these pieces takes us back to Sant Martà Vell, a picturesque village in Catalonia, where Peretti first found her cottage. Enchanted by the charm of Casa Pequeña, draped in blooming roses and wisteria under a starlit sky, the cottage became a personal sanctuary and a significant source of inspiration for her artistic endeavors.
GOLD STANDARDS
A glimpse of Peretti’s serene home in Sant Martà Vell.
Despite her father Ferdinando’s immense wealth, he disapproved of Elsa’s decision to diverge from their family’s conservative lifestyle, prompting her to forge her own path. She began her career teaching French and working as a ski instructor in Gstaad before studying interior design in Milan under architect Dado Torrigiani. By 1964, she found herself in the fashion world as a model in Barcelona, mingling with a circle of avant-garde Catalan artists and architects, including Ricardo Bofill and Xavier Corberó, who were passionately opposed to Franco’s regime and were part of the movement known as la gauche divine.
In 1968, Elsa made a pivotal move to New York, where her multifaceted career took off. In addition to modeling, she explored jewelry design, collaborating with Spanish silversmith Vincent Abad. An early piece, a pendant inspired by a flea market find, caught the eyes of fashion insiders when it was worn in a Giorgio di Sant’Angelo show, solidifying her reputation in the industry. Over the years, she connected with notable figures like the designer Halston, creating distinctive jewelry pieces that perfectly captured the cultural zeitgeist of the time—akin to spirit bottles and whimsically designed gems.
By 1974, Tiffany & Co. recognized her talent, prompting her to channel her eclectic inspirations into jewelry. Among her notable designs was a necklace shaped after a snake’s skeleton, reflecting her creativity and innovative approach. Peretti’s jewelry style encompassed an array of motifs—from scorpions and hearts to beans and apples—leaving a lasting impact on the design world that is still felt today, influencing contemporary designers like Tom Ford.
TAKING SHAPE
An archival cuff designed by Peretti.
FLOW STATE
The latest Tiffany & Co. 18k gold cuff adorned with pavé diamonds.
Among the buildings Elsa preserved in Sant Martà Vell is her laboratory, now filled with a rich collection of her sketches, alongside an installation showcasing her works and cherished antique pieces, such as beautifully colored iced celadon bowls. Over the years, she expanded her property portfolio, which included homes in Manhattan, Italy, and the picturesque Porto Ercole coastline. Among these, her original cottage remained her beloved refuge. The success of her jewelry line with Tiffany & Co. significantly enhanced her resources, allowing her to invest further in the village and cement her legacy.
HOME STRETCH
One of the many houses owned by Peretti in the village.
Presently, Peretti’s legacy includes 18 houses and three country estates, all under the care of the Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation. Her original cottage, while modest, has been thoughtfully enhanced with subtle artistic additions, including a discreet pool and carefully placed sculptures throughout the gardens. A distinctive fireplace in the dining area showcases her design flair, while her artwork adorns the various spaces. It’s worth noting the towering staircase leading to a bedroom, adorned with her unique Padova cutlery set and other intricately crafted items, such as silver candlesticks abstracted from cow bones.
Elsa’s world was not just a reflection of her artistic talent but also embodied her vibrant spirit and approach to life, creating an enduring legacy that continues to inspire.
Source
www.vogue.com