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From Pop-Ups to Permanent Spots: The Evolution of Emerging Chefs

When Leina Horii and Brian Lea signed the lease for what would become Kisser in Nashville, their vision centered around a straightforward takeout window focusing on Japanese barbecue and bento boxes. However, Kisser has transformed into a vibrant café offering authentic Japanese home-cooked meals, with no barbecued items in sight.

The initial concept underwent a significant shift due to the response during their series of pop-up events, which they organized while awaiting the necessary building permits. The enthusiasm for traditional dishes like udon, onigiri, and inari exceeded their expectations, prompting an entire menu overhaul to cater to the culinary preferences they observed.

Their experience reflects a broader trend among emerging chefs, particularly those recognized as 2024 F&W Best New Chefs. Many are finding that starting with pop-up restaurants is an effective way to transition into permanent restaurant ownership. Karyn Tomlinson, another celebrated Best New Chef and the owner of Myriel in St. Paul, noted that pop-ups help chefs explore different culinary styles with reduced overhead.

“It’s an excellent mechanism to establish a unique culinary identity, which can be a luxury when working under someone else’s vision,” Tomlinson explained. Before launching Myriel, she worked as the chef at The Corner Table, a restaurant that closed in 2019.

During a brief period between that closure and the COVID-19 lockdowns, Tomlinson experimented with a pop-up restaurant called Ufta. Although it diverged from the identity of Myriel, this pop-up confirmed that her Scandinavian-Minnesotan menu had a loyal following.

“People are drawn to chefs who communicate their passion; it creates a compelling narrative around the food,” Tomlinson remarked. This revelation allowed her to break free from conventional restaurant norms and fully embrace her personal story through her cuisine.

Meanwhile, Horii and Lea also discovered that diners were particularly responsive to the intimate and relatable dishes inspired by their personal histories, especially Horii’s background.

“In the back of our minds, the cuisine we serve today was always our true calling,” Lea said, reflecting on how they modified their approach based on public reception. Initially skeptical about the appeal of onigiri, Horii’s doubts were quelled when their first sales at a farmers market resulted in a sell-out within half an hour.

“I recall wondering if anyone would appreciate what the ‘weird Asian woman’ was selling,” Horii said, sharing how people expressed excitement about onigiri after spotting it in manga but never encountering it locally.

Time and again, she has been surprised by the fond memories people share related to the Japanese cuisine she serves, revealing a broader cultural connection.

“I often hear stories like, ‘I grew up with a Japanese neighbor, and my best friend’s family cooked curry,’” Horii shared, noting how many have limited opportunities to enjoy these authentic dishes elsewhere.

Fortuitously for Horii and Lea, delays in the permit approvals pushed their timeline, allowing space for the menu shift. Despite the obstacles, these changes dictated the layout of Kisser’s physical space, prompting them to design the counter in a way that invited a dine-in experience rather than just a takeout window.

Wedchayan “Deau” Arpapornnopparat, another of the 2024 F&W Best New Chefs, ventured into the restaurant industry without initially planning to run a full-fledged eatery. Beginning in 2020, he sold juices from a tent outside his apartment in Los Angeles. The overwhelming demand for food alongside his juices led to an expansion, culminating in signing a lease for a stand within a food hall, establishing Holy Basil.

“We’ve simply followed our curiosity,” Arpapornnopparat shared, explaining how he opened another location to introduce dishes better suited for dine-in service.

Even with growth, he maintains the playful creativity often found in pop-ups, affirming their value as spaces for innovation and exploration within the culinary landscape.

“I foresee pop-ups continuing to serve as testing grounds for new dining concepts,” he stated, underscoring their importance in nurturing creativity.

For many young chefs, the gradual approach allowed by pop-ups is essential, offering a platform to hone their skills without the risks associated with a permanent establishment. Tomlinson, who regularly hosts pop-ups at Myriel, emphasized the learning opportunities that arise from these experiences.

“The business side of running a restaurant is less visible in a pop-up, but it can provide aspiring restaurateurs with a valuable glimpse into what it takes,” she noted.

Looking forward, Myriel’s chef de cuisine, who hails from Bulgaria, plans their own pop-up, an initiative Tomlinson strongly supports.

“Commencing a restaurant is a massive commitment,” she added. “Pop-ups can be an excellent way to test the waters for new culinary ideas.”

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