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New Sustainable Uniforms Designed for UN Tours by Swedish Students

A unique project aimed at creating sustainable uniforms for UN tour guides began with Sofia Hedström de Leo, the former head of sustainability at the Swedish consulate and an advisory board member of the United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle Network. The UN tasked her with selecting a partner capable of producing a clothing collection aligned with the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), with a focus on collaboration with a young designer. De Leo chose the Swedish School of Textiles, noting its strong commitment to sustainability and the potential for educational innovation. “It’s a way to talk about sustainability through a clothing collection, a way to position Sweden,” she remarked.

Under the guidance of professors Susanne Nejderås, Karin Landahl, and artistic directors Stephanie Malmgren de Oliveira, a group of 20 students undertook the project alongside their regular coursework. They traveled to Backåkra, Sweden, the summer residence of Dag Hammarskjöld, the second Secretary-General of the United Nations. This visit inspired the patterns featured on their silk scarves and influenced the choice of gray fabrics for the suits.

“We aimed to introduce lighter colors, moving away from the dark suits that have been prevalent for many years, signifying hope. We also drew blues from the sky to reflect optimism,” de Oliveira explained. The design incorporated asymmetrical collars and V-cut necklines that echo architectural details found within the United Nations. Notably, the uniforms were crafted using deadstock materials, including high-quality Italian wool for the suits, and were produced within the EU, showcasing a collaboration with Swedish manufacturers. The unique side-buttoning T-shirts, characterized by a stand collar, were made in Borås, the same city where the university is located.

The inaugural uniforms for the guides are characterized by meticulous tailoring inspired by the attire worn by flight attendants in the mid-20th century. According to UN press materials, this aesthetic nods to an era shortly after the conclusion of global military conflicts. Renowned designer Frank Smith, associated with Pan Am Airlines, also contributed by introducing a more informal style to UN tours in the form of vests, which were worn by guides from 1969 to 1977. The fashion legacy further evolved when iconic Hollywood costume designer Edith Head implemented Chanel-inspired suits, while the first male guides donned uniforms provided by Brooks Brothers.

Images from past uniform designs—such as Edith Head’s 1977 outfits and those by Thibaut Bouet of Christian Dior in 1983—illustrate the evolution of UN attire, culminating in the innovative designs created by SST students. The new uniforms include a suit jacket, trousers, a wrap skirt, button-down shirts, T-shirts, scarves, and a versatile cotton dress, all adjustable and compliant with new EU sizing regulations.

This project signifies not just a contribution to the UN’s operational needs but also emphasizes sustainability and education, reflecting a growing trend within the fashion industry towards responsible design practices. As these students step onto the international stage with their creations, they embody a vision of a sustainable future within the realm of global diplomacy.

Source
www.vogue.com