Photo credit: explorersweb.com
Evacuations Rise on Annapurna Amid Heavy Snowfall
Recent evacuations from Camp 3 at an altitude of 6,400 meters on Annapurna have escalated following the unsuccessful second attempt to summit due to heavy snowfall. The Brazilian climbers, Moeses Fiamoncini and his client Renata Fialho, were airlifted from Camp 3 as they faced serious health challenges during their ascent.
Fiamoncini reported severe exhaustion and signs of pulmonary edema, while his client experienced hallucinations despite using supplemental oxygen. Their descent could have been disastrous, he noted in his conversation with ExplorersWeb.
Pilot Simone Moro shared a video showcasing the precarious landing conditions amid strong winds, highlighting the challenges faced by rescue operations.
The rise in high-altitude evacuations has raised concerns and led to discussions within the climbing community. ExplorersWeb compiled accounts of the latest incidents from Fiamoncini and independent climber Piotr Krzyzowski, along with insights from an insurance provider involved in rescue operations.
The Second Summit Attempt
Piotr Krzyzowski, a 45-year-old climber from Poland, was part of the second summit attempt, ascending independently without Sherpa support or bottled oxygen. With his sights set on Makalu for the season, he acclimatized on Himlung Himal before progressing to Annapurna Base Camp, where he arrived on April 17 and promptly joined the summit push.
Krzyzowski reached Camp 1 on his first day and Camp 2 a day later. He pushed onward early on April 19, traversing the treacherous couloir to Camp 3 before continuing to seek a suitable place to pitch his tent near Camp 4.
“What typically takes four hours between Camp 3 and Camp 4 took me over eight due to the conditions,” he explained, noting the significant accumulation of fresh snow. On his route, he encountered another group descending who had been attempting to summit for more than 24 hours without success.
He recounted an alarming conversation with Fiamoncini, who was struggling with his ascent and in need of supplemental oxygen to avoid dire consequences.
Spending the night at Camp 3 was fraught with danger for Krzyzowski, as the serac above posed a significant threat. “I spent a tough night ready to escape at a moment’s notice,” he noted, leading him to ultimately decide that his safety was more important than reaching the summit.
Fiamoncini’s Experience
Fiamoncini and Fialho are currently recuperating in a hotel in Kathmandu. Fiamoncini reflected on the number of climbers attempting the summit during their push, estimating approximately 24 individuals, including Sherpas.
Commencing their ascent from Camp 3 at 3:30 PM, Fiamoncini found the abundant snowfall challenging. Having previously attempted Annapurna without success, he noted marked changes in the route since his last expedition, with increased difficulty from the accumulation of snow since early April.
Despite having a bottle of supplemental oxygen prepared for emergencies, the arduous conditions led Fiamoncini to delay using it until absolutely necessary. He described the mental and physical toll of multiple long stops while awaiting for Sherpas to secure the route.
Turning Points
As they reached higher altitudes, the unfavorable snow conditions began to affect their plans. “At around 7,400 meters, I realized the snow was too much, and I decided to use oxygen, but found the system malfunctioning,” he recounted. With deteriorating weather conditions, he opted to retreat rather than risk life-threatening consequences.
The challenging descent was fraught with danger. Fiamoncini noted feelings of exhaustion that left him doubting his ability to reach Camp 3, especially after realizing Fialho was experiencing similar distress. Their situation necessitated the consideration of a helicopter rescue.
Ultimately, they were airlifted from Camp 3 and taken to the hospital, where both were treated for early signs of cerebral and pulmonary edema before being discharged the following day.
End of the Climbing Season
While Krzyzowski remained at Camp 3 during the evacuation, he documented the moment as a helicopter retrieved one of the Brazilian climbers. Forecasts indicate impending poor weather that is likely to conclude the climbing season on Annapurna.
Krzyzowski, now shifting focus to Makalu, acknowledged the beauty and danger of Annapurna, noting it requires a high level of experience that many climbers may lack.
The Concern Over Evacuations
This season has seen over ten rescues from Camp 3, leading to discussions on whether some climbers were genuinely facing medical emergencies or if some chose to avoid the hazardous descent. This mirrors incidents on Everest, where climbers have sought helicopter transport to avoid perilous zones.
Insurance Perspectives
Prateek Gupta from Adventure Sports Cover 360 expressed the complexities surrounding rescue operations, noting that many climbers do not fully disclose their conditions before evacuation. He indicated that personal fears or apprehensions sometimes lead to calls for helicopter rides, which complicates the evaluation process for insurance purposes.
The expense for long-line rescues from Camp 3 is significant, ranging between $19,000 to $20,000, raising further questions regarding the adequacy of safety protocols on severely demanding climbs.
Source
explorersweb.com